Space is a big motivator when it comes to buying a house; sometimes it seems as if people start planning to buy a bigger house the moment they move into their current one. And yet, after years of growth, new houses have actually been getting smaller over the last few years, dropping from a median of 2,519 square feet in 2015 to just 2,191 last year.
The rule of thumb on square footage is that you need about 600 to 700 square feet per person living in a house, so if you’re a family of four you ideally want about 2,400-2,800 square feet. And adding square footage can pay off—every 1,000 square feet of additional space in your home can potentially boost your home’s value by 30%. There are several options for adding square footage to your home, but most depend on having space to expand into. If you lack outdoor space, can’t build up due to zoning laws or other barriers, and you have a shallow crawl space that’s not usable for any activity except crawling, you might ask yourself if you can solve your square footage problem by going down.
Can you? Possibly. Should you? That’s a more complicated question.
Digging out
Digging out a crawl space or shallow basement is just what it sounds like: You dig, removing the dirt and other debris currently forming the floor, lowering the floor until you have usable clearance above your head. It’s more complicated than that, of course: You also have to extend and reinforce the foundation and footings via underpinning or buttressing, and you have to figure out how to remove all that dirt.
There are many considerations involved when deciding whether it’s possible to dig out your crawl space:
Soil. The type and condition of the soil your house is built on is a big factor. Loose, sandy soil is more likely to collapse during the process.
Foundation. The type of foundation matters, too; older foundations made from bricks are less stable, especially if the mortar is sandy. Monolithic concrete foundations are better for dig outs.
If you consult with a structural engineer and decide it’s possible to dig out your crawl space and get that valuable square footage added to your house, you still have to decide if it’s worth it. And it very well may not be.
Considerations
There are a lot of potentially disastrous downsides to digging out your crawl space to create a basement you can then finish:
Cost: The total cost to dig out a crawl space and create a finished basement can be as much as $200,000. Even if you get that 30% bump in your home’s sale price, it’s going to be tough to get a solid ROI on that.
Risk: Homes can—and do—collapse when crawl spaces are dug out. Even when proceeding with extreme caution, digging out can weaken the foundation and cause it to shift, which can set off a chain reaction of failure that leaves you not only with no new basement, but also no house.
Cost, again: Because of that extra risk, you’d be well advised to buy extra insurance if you undertake the project—especially because catastrophic failure of your home’s stability can impact your neighbors on every side. You’d better be prepared for that kind of liability.
Time: This isn’t a quick job. It can take weeks to dig out a crawl space, and you may not be able to stay in the home during the process.
Bottom line
You’ve got a crawl space you try your best to never enter. You’re dreaming of a finished basement or accessory dwelling unit. Should you dig out your crawl space? Only if you answer "yes" to the following questions:
Do you have no other option to add square footage to your home?
Was your home built after 1950 or so?
Has a licensed structural engineer signed off?
Are you prepared for the cost and potential liability?
If your answer is "no" to any of these questions, put down that shovel and back away from your crawlspace.
A dog that likes to dig can pretty quickly destroy your yard. And though you can scold them when you catch them in the act, stopping the behavior entirely will likely require a bit more effort. With warmer weather on the way and yard improvement on the spring to-do list, here’s how to fix those holes (as well as a few ideas for stopping your dog from digging in the first place).
Why your dog might be digging in your yard
You can fill in the holes your dog has dug, but you'll be doing that endlessly if you don’t address the underlying reason your dog is digging holes in the first place. Dogs may dig up a yard for a number of reasons:
They’re bored and need entertainment or a job to do.
They were bred to dig.
They are searching for prey, like burrowing animals or pests.
They’re hot (or cold).
They’re trying to escape after or away from something.
How you stop the digging depends on the underlying cause, but in general, consider first what your dog might need—whether that's a toy to keep it entertained, or shade, or water. Frequent walks, minimizing unsupervised time and engaging your dog with tricks or commands can help, too. Punishing your dog generally doesn’t. And if you’re ferreting out pests, be sure to avoid toxic products that your dog could accidentally ingest.
An oft-repeated bit of lore suggests that filling holes with your dog's own poop will deter them from digging in the same spot again. It's worth a try—most dogs won’t go after their own poop, but some might. If it's a deeper hole, don't put their poop at the bottom. Add some soil first, then place the poop a few inches below the surface, and top off with more soil.
Finally, if the digging continues, you may be able to train your dog to dig in a designated area—say, a pit filled with soil or sand and your dog’s toys. Lead them to that area and reward them when they use their digging pit instead of digging in other parts of your yard.
How to repair holes your dog has dug in your yard
Filling in the holes your dog has dug doesn't sound complicated, but you shouldn’t just push the dug-out dirt back into the hole. (You probably wouldn’t be able to do this anyway, as dogs that dig typically make a huge mess by kicking dirt everywhere.) Instead, you’ll need to bring in topsoil and, if you have grass, add grass seed or a sod patch.
Follow these steps when repairing dog-dug holes.
If you're using grass seed
Fill the hole with topsoil, water it, and add just enough additional soil to bring it to the same level as the ground.
Add seed and water, following the instructions on the bag.
If you're using a sod patch
If you're using a sod patch, fill the hole with soil to just below ground level, leaving a gap equal to the thickness of your sod patch.
Roll out the sod over the hole, and cut the edges to fit.
Remove the sod and shovel out the hole as needed so the sod patch will sit flush with the surrounding ground.
Place the sod and water it daily until it takes root.
If you want to update your color scheme and get the look of some of 2024's most popular colors without painting your whole house, you’re in luck: There are plenty of projects that you can do to add some new color with just a gallon or even a quart of paint. If you’re looking for a simple DIY project to add some color to your home, here are a few ways to add 2024’s most popular colors.
Ever year, designers as well as color experts from major paint manufacturers choose a color of the year based on global trends. This year, the color palette seems to be nature-inspired, with a lot of blues, but also greens, darker black and brown tones, and some floral notes like yellow and peach.
Paint some trim
To add color to a room without needing much paint, consider painting your door frame or window frame. For smaller frames, you should only need a quart of paint, but if you have more trim in your room, a gallon should do it. Try adding some Renew Blue from Sherwin-Williams or some Cracked Pepper from Behr to your trim to make it pop and give your color scheme a refresh. When painting trim—especially trim that is likely to be touched, like window and door frames—it’s a good idea to use semi-gloss or gloss paint to avoid damage and make it easier to clean.
Paint a door
If you have doors that have seen better days, you can give them a facelift with a new coat of paint. Standard sized doors without much damage might be able to be painted with a quart of paint, but if you need to do multiple coats, or if you have an oversized door, you should get a gallon, just in case. Try painting a door with Blue Nova from Benjamin Moore or Dark Auburn from Sherwin-Williams. Remember that removing a door before you paint can often make it easier to mask and will make your project go faster.
Paint some hardware
If you have metal hardware that needs a refresh, you can try spray painting it with some Krylon Bluebird. Spray painting your drawer pulls, knobs, and handles for cabinets or furniture can give you a pop of color without spending much money—just remember to use your spray paint outdoors or in another well-ventilated area. If you have wooden drawer pulls or knobs, you can try adding some peach fuzz from Pantone's color of the year as a brush-on.
Paint a piece of furniture
If you have a piece of furniture that needs a new coat of paint, you can incorporate a color of the year easily into your space. For most furniture, you can use a spray paint like Satin French Blue from Rust-Oleum. Just scuff up the surface a little bit with some fine grit sandpaper to make sure the paint sticks well. If you have wooden furniture that could use a boost, you can try using a sky-inspired blue like Upwardfrom Sherwin-WIlliams to add a stripe or paint an edge. If you’re painting only a small piece, you can likely get away with just a quart of paint for this project.
Stencil on some color
With a relatively small amount of paint, you can add some detail to a floor, wall, ceiling, furniture, or really any surface big enough to hold a stencil. This project will work best on surfaces that are in relatively good shape already, and you might need to add a coat of sealer on top to make it durable for a tabletop or other high-touch areas. Use some Limitless, a buttery, floral yellow by Glidden, or any of the other colors we’ve listed and a stencil to add a colorful motif or pattern to your surface for an instant color pop that’s affordable and simple to do.
Buying a house—any house—increasingly requires a small fortune and a tolerance for high interest rates, and renting isn’t any less bleak, with prices through the roof all over the country. So if you’ve currently got a roof over your head, congratulations! It’s something of an achievement, even if it isn’t fancy.
But what if you want fancy? Maybe you’re tired of builder-grade everything (though not all “builder-grade” stuff is worth changing). Maybe you just want to feel that rush of pride when people come over to your place. If you want a house that looks fancy without having to get a second job to pay for luxe materials, you have a lot of options. Here are 11 ways to make your house look expensive without spending a lot of money.
But first, clean and declutter
The first step toward a house that seems more expensive and luxurious is to declutter and organize everything in it. A tidy house has been proven to be a more valuable property overall (homes that are kept neat are worth about $3,700 more on average), and rooms with clean lines and no mess can give even the most modest space a more minimalist, purposeful look that feels fancier.
Add garage hinge magnets
Do you have some pretty standard, low-rent garage doors? You can make them look a lot more expensive and luxe for about $20-30 with some simple handle and hinge magnets. These just slap into place to instantly make your cheap garage door look like a much more expensive Carriage House look. You can see the effect in this video, and it’s pretty dramatic.
Install deck tiles
Outdoor spaces increase our enjoyment of a property—and the property’s value. But if your outdoor space is a broken concrete patio, a weather wooden deck, or a bare patch of dirt it’s not exactly inspiring (or comfortable) to use. The good news is that it’s easy to quickly and cheaply upgrade that area as long as it’s structurally sound (if your deck is threatening to collapse in the next stiff wind, no amount of cheap solutions will save you).
Luckily, all you need are some outdoor interlocking wood tiles to instantly turn that patio, deck, or patch of dirt into a luxurious outdoor space that looks a lot more expensive than it is. If you have an IKEA nearby, you can get enough tiles to cover a 9x9 space for less than $200, and it’s a job that can usually be accomplished in just an hour or two.
Cover your appliances in stainless steel contact paper
One dead giveaway that your house isn’t exactly a luxury model is the busted old appliances in your kitchen. Buying all new stainless steel appliances might be outside your budget, but you can get the same look for just a little money using stainless steel peel-and-stick contact paper. This stuff is waterproof, and if applied with some care it will fool just about anyone, instantly transforming your old appliances into shiny new (looking) ones. You can see the process of applying it here (using these kits, which are designed for specific appliances).
Use peel and stick tiles everywhere
Peel-and-stick technology is the cheapskate’s secret friend. They make a surprisingly large range of peel-and-stick items, from “tile” backsplashes to faux wood planks that can be used for accent walls or to even make a faux shiplap ceiling, or contact paper that can be applied to your kitchen counters to transform cheap counters into expensive-looking stone.
Install new flooring over your gross carpet
If you’re stuck with a ratty old carpet in your house that you can’t remove or replace, whether because you’re renting or because you can’t afford a full-on renovation, a relatively inexpensive solution is to install laminate flooring over your carpet. Yes, this is possible—you shouldn't consider it a permanent solution, but it provides an instant upgrade from the pink shag your landlord insists is “fine.”
If your carpet is pretty low-pile, you might be able to put the new floor directly on top of it; if your carpet’s a bit heftier you’ll probably need to put down a thin plywood underlayment. Either way, this is an affordable project that can have a dramatic effect on any room.
Install molding
One reason your house looks kind of basic? Your bare walls. Sure, you can solve that with some well-chosen art, but you can also do amazing things using wood picture frame molding. With the right tools and some time, you can create striking patterns on your walls that combine subtlety with elegance, giving it a bespoke look for not much money. (For less than not much money, you can even use pell-and-stick molding, like this stuff. You can get about 10 feet for less than $20.)
Upgrade your knobs and pulls
Whether your kitchen cabinetry (or any cabinetry in the house, actually) uses knobs or pulls (and yes, there is a difference), you can transform their look for less a few hundred bucks, depending on what you choose. Combined with a fresh paint job on your cabinets (or even a vinyl wrap), fancy new pulls or knobs will make it look like you renovated when all you did was work a few screws.
Add floor to ceiling window treatments
Hanging your curtains as close to the ceiling as possible and running those curtains to the floor will make your rooms look bigger and draw the eye up, making the space seem larger, brighter, and more expensive. People like higher ceilings and associate them with a sense of freedom, and are often willing to pay more for homes they perceive to have higher ceilings. And all you need to accomplish this is some curtain rods and some fabric.
Get new lampshades
If your home utilizes a lot of lamps that you bought in bulk at a big-box store because you needed to light up your rooms without hiring an electrician or spending too much, they might be contributing to the sense that your house isn’t very luxe. The lampshades provided with your typical mass-produced lamp aren’t exactly stylish—or durable.
Luckily, the solution isn’t expensive: You just need some cooler lampshades. This could involve a few art projects to spruce up the ones you already have, or a few new lampshades (like this, or this) to give your sad lamps a nice sense of luxury.
Install DIY built-ins
Built-in storage units like bookshelves add to a sense that the home is expensive, and are generally thought to add value to a house. But adding actual built-ins to your house can be pricey, since it might require a carpenter to custom design and install shelving or cabinetry. Or you can get a similar effect for much less money by buying Ikea storage, combining units, and painting.
Over 200,000 stovetops from Kenmore and Frigidaire have been recalled by the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission because they pose a risk of fire or burn injury. If you have a Kenmore or Frigidaire electric cooktop that was purchased between June of 2001 and August of 2009, you should check to see if your stove is included in the recall. Here’s what you need to know about the recall and how to deal with a recalled stove.
The reason for the recall
Frigidaire and Kenmore smooth top stoves included in the recall have a malfunction that can cause burners to turn on spontaneously. The burners also might not turn off when they are switched off and they might also not turn on the correct heat setting. Over 200 incidents have been reported of the stoves exhibiting problems with the switches that control the burners. 14 fires and eight injuries due to burns and smoke inhalation have been caused by the faulty burners. There was an original recall issued in 2009, but Electrolux has reissued the recall because of the more than 200 reported incidents since then.
How to tell if your stove has been recalled
The models of stove that are included in the recall were sold between June of 2001 and August of 2009 and are smooth top ranges from Kenmore and Frigidaire. The included model names are Frigidaire, Frigidaire Gallery, Frigidaire Professional, and Kenmore Elite. You can find a complete list of the included serial numbers from the United States Consumer Product Commission to check them against your model number. The model number of your appliance is located inside the drawer below the oven, on the right side of the drawer’s frame.
How to register your recall
If your stove is in the recalled group, you can contact Electrolux for a complimentary repair (if a fix is possible) or a refund on the fee to haul your broken stove away as well as a $50 gift card from Electrulux. The recall number for this batch is 24-235, on stoves that were manufactured in the U.S., but the recall includes units that were sold in Canada as well. While it doesn’t appear that the company will replace a unit that can’t be repaired, or refund the money you originally spent, it’s still worth the cost to replace a faulty unit because of the risk of fire.
Safety recommendations for affected stovetops
Electrolux recommends avoiding leaving anything on the burners when the stove isn’t in use to avoid causing a fire from a spontaneously hot burner. If you’re concerned that your stovetop might be affected, you can also choose to unplug your stove, which will eliminate the fire and burn injury risk. The best way to ensure that your recalled stove doesn’t cause damage is to contact Electrolux for a repair, or replace your appliance.
How long is the recall in effect?
The recall doesn’t expire, so even if you discover that your stove top is included several weeks or months after it has been issued, you are likely still entitled to compensation from Electrolux. If for some reason you can’t reach Electrolux, or they are uncommunicative or unresponsive to your recall registration request, you can contact the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission at (800) 638-2772 for assistance.
If you live in the Midwest, you know the region is already in the middle of a tough tornado season. Hurricane season, meanwhile, looks like it will be more intense than last year. Then there are earthquakes, which can happen at any time on the west coast (and hit the east coast just last month). With so many disasters coming at us, preparing for anything and everything is vital.
The U.S. Department of Homeland Security strongly recommends preparing a disaster supply kit in one or two easy-to-carry containers so you and your family can survive on your own for several days should something happen. In addition to storing maps, sanitizer, medications, and pet food for your four-legged friends, you'll need these recommended essentials, should disaster strike.
Water
An emergency may leave you without clean water for a few days. It is recommended that you keep one gallon of water for each person in your household for several days. To ensure you have enough clean water, pick up this collection of six emergency water storage tanks. Each holds five gallons and comes with two spigots and a water purification kit.
Non-perishable food
Even in a disaster, you have to eat, so why not eat well? This entree kit contains 10 different freeze-dried entrees that last a quarter of a century, including chili mac and mashed potatoes. Altogether, 120 servings of food are inside this rugged flood-safe container that you can store practically anywhere.
They say nobody listens to the radio anymore, but it's your lifeline for staying updated on weather-related catastrophes. This emergency AM/FM/NOAA weather radio is a versatile tool that can be powered by a hand crank, solar power, or USB cable. It also includes a flashlight and an SOS Alarm, giving you multiple modes to stay informed and safe. Most importantly, it can charge your phone, ensuring you stay connected when it matters most.
First aid kit
Cuts, bruises, burns, and fevers: this 160-piece first aid kit takes care of everything. It includes all the essentials: cleansing wipes, assorted bandages, rolled gauze, antibiotic cream, itch-stopping cream, acetaminophen caplets, an instant cold pack, and even gloves to reduce the risk of infection.
Yes, even nowadays, when everything is rechargeable, you'll need some AAs, AAAs, and even some 9V batteries to ensure everything is up and running in your home during an emergency. Instead of keeping them in that drawer in your kitchen (you know which one), organize them in the Battery Daddy. My family has had one for years, and it's always come in handy for testing the batteries we already have and keeping new ones together when we need them most (like Christmas morning).
Whistle
This emergency whistle can be heard from a mile away if you want to get someone's attention or signal for help. It is also plastic, so there's no danger of it sticking to your lips when the weather gets cold.
Dust mask
In an emergency, the air may be contaminated, so wearing a mask approved by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) to filter out anything harmful will protect your respiratory system and keep you safe. This 10-pack of disposable masks will do the job comfortably and at the right price.
If your home is damaged, you will need to put something together quickly to protect it and your family from the elements. Plastic sheeting and duct tape can help you in a pinch, and this dense, heavy-duty product is easy to apply and will cover any area and protect it from the cold, rain, or high winds.
Sanitation
If using the toilet isn't an option, this toilet in a bag will capture your numbers one and two and turn it into something you can dispose of safely without worrying about the smell or attracting disease-spreading insects. Remember to pick up cleaning wipes, which you can purchase as compressed towelettes.
Tools
After a disaster like an earthquake or fire, you may need to turn off your gas or water lines quickly. However, if the power is out or part of your home is flooded, you might be unable to reach your wrench set. This lightweight, aluminum four-in-one tool can do the job without charging your power tools. In addition to shutting off your utilities, it can also pry open doors so you can get to family members in other parts of your home.
Your fancy electric can opener may not work if you need to open a can of food. Be sure to add this sturdy rust-resistant device to your kit to open that tin of peaches or pop open that bottle of beer you'll need when that storm finally blows over.
Charger for your cell phone
It's hard to stay in touch with family and friends if your smartphone battery is dead. With this durable, waterproof, shockproof, and dust-proof solar charger, you can keep all your devices up and running. It also has a bright LED flashlight, so you don't have to fumble in the dark for your charging cord.
If you have some maintenance tasks to tackle, or you’re looking to boost your DIY game, having the right tools can make a big difference. Building a starter kit of good quality cordless tools or upgrading the batteries for your existing set can be expensive—but buying tools with batteries that don’t last very long, or take forever to charge, will add unnecessary frustration to your DIY projects. These deals on DeWalt cordless tools can make it more affordable to get some new batteries as well as a couple of new tools while keeping the quality of the tools you’re bringing in mind. (Note that all sales are based on availability, and some are already sold out.)
DeWalt XR 20 volt battery two pack kit
DeWalt’s XR, 20 volt five amp hour batteries ($319) are designed to last longer than their standard 20 volt batteries. If you’re working on projects where you’ll be using your cordless tools for several hours without interruption, these batteries are worth the extra cost. The two pack of batteries and the charger cost $319 for the kit that comes with a tool bag. But during this Memorial Day sale, you can also get two free tools with your battery kit purchase. Here are a few of the best free tool deals you can choose from.
Tools like impact wrenches and saws tend to go through batteries more quickly, so this battery type is a good choice for these. The DeWalt XR 20 volt batteries are compatible with any of DeWalt’s MAX 12 to 20 amp tools and accessories, though, so you can likely use them with your existing DeWalt cordless tools.
DeWalt 20 volt four amp hour battery two pack kit
You can get one free DeWalt tool with the purchase of a 20 volt, four amp hour kit ($199). This slimmer, lighter battery style won’t last as long as the XR batteries, but for occasional use, these batteries will serve you well. You can pick from the same tool list as with the XR battery deal, but you only get to choose one tool from the list for the regular lithium ion batteries. Here are a few tools I'd recommend getting with these batteries.
If you’re looking for a cordless tool kit for occasional home maintenance or lighter hobby use, these batteries will work well. The impact driver can also take drill bits designed to connect with its chuck, so you can use it as a drill for pre-drilling as well as for driving screws.
One more free-with-purchase deal on DeWalt
If you’re looking to upgrade your tool kit, Lowe’s is also offering a deal on portable DeWalt table saws. Having a table saw allows you to make straight cuts on sheet goods or rip lumber more easily and can save you time on your DIY projects.
Windows are among the most expensive things you’ll ever have to buy for your house—costing approximately anywhere from $450 to $1,400 per window, which can obviously add up fast. You also have to choose the right kind of windows for your house—and there’s a dizzying number of choices. In order to make the best decision, you need to know the differences between the various types of windows, and their pros and cons.
Single-hung windows
Single-hung windows are rectangular and have two “sashes,” one on top and one on the bottom. Only one of these—typically the bottom one—can be moved up and down, while the other is fixed in place.
When to choose: When money is a concern. Single-hung windows tend to be the cheapest options, with an average cost of $560 per window.
Double-hung windows
Double-hung windows look just like single-hung, but both sashes can be moved up and down. These are pretty standard in most homes.
When to choose: When you need to stick to a budget, but want more flexibility. Double-hung windows aren’t much pricier than single-hung, but offer the option of which sash to open up, which may be useful in your space.
Awning/Hopper windows
An awning window has hinges at the top and can be pushed outward, resembling an awning with the outside of the window facing up. Conversely, a hopper-style window has hinges at the bottom so it resembles a chute or hopper when opened. Typically these use a crank mechanism to open and close. They offer a tight seal against the weather, too.
When to choose: When security and privacy are paramount. Awning and hopper windows are difficult to open from the outside, and can be mounted high on the wall to provide light and ventilation without letting folks peek in at you. Awning windows provide better protection from rain, however, as hopper windows can guide rainwater into your home.
Casement windows
Casement windows have a similar mechanism to awning or hopper windows, using a crank or lever to open up. They open to the left or right, however, instead of being hinged at the top or bottom.
When to choose: When energy efficiency is top priority. Because casement windows close tightly on all sides, they have minimal air leakage. The crank or lever mechanism can also make them a good choice for difficult-to-reach areas, such as behind a kitchen sink.
Pivot windows
Pivot windows are square or rectangular windows that pivot on a central hinge, either swinging horizontally or vertically. The result is that half the window is outside the house and half inside when opened. They’re easy to operate, but always partly obscure the view.
When to choose: When security plus ease-of-operation are priorities. Pivoting windows don’t offer much space for someone to squeeze through.
Transom windows
Transom windows are small windows that sit above other windows or doorways. They can be hinged and openable, but most commonly they’re fixed. They can add a touch of elegance to your home’s design, but their main purpose is to increase the natural light getting into your home, especially at a front door that blocks the light.
When to choose: When you need more light in an entryway, or when you want to add some sophistication to your home.
Bay and bow windows
Bay windows are three rectangular windows that are arranged at an angle, forming a “bump out” from your house. They’re usually single- or double-hung, but can also be “fixed,” meaning they don’t open at all. Bow windows are very similar to bay windows, but have a more rounded arrangement.
When to choose: When you want more living space. Bay and bow windows let you add some square footage to your living space while maximizing the amount of light you get. They can be pricey, however, and often require custom window treatments.
Jalousie windows
Jalousie windows are made up of glass blinds. Using a crank, the blinds swing up or down to open and close. They’re typically used in warm, rainy areas because they can be left open when it rains, maximizing airflow.
When to choose: When you live in a tropical area with lots of rain, and you’re not concerned about energy efficiency.
Garden windows
Typically found in kitchens behind the sink, these are box-like windows that protrude out from the wall, creating a greenhouse-like environment for a small indoor garden.
When to choose: When you lack outdoor space and want to add a touch of green to your home.
A garden window looking out on a backyard.Credit: Jeff Somers
Glass block windows
Glass block windows are just what they sound like: Glass blocks stacked and joined with mortar, typically utilizing glazed or frosted glass. They’re fixed, meaning there’s no way to open them, so they let in light while protecting your privacy.
When to choose: When privacy is more important than ventilation.
Storm windows
Storm windows can be permanent windows made using shatter-resistant and storm-rated glass, or inserts that are installed outside the actual window that offer protection from winds and debris impact.
When to choose: When you live in an area prone to high-intensity storms. They can also provide better soundproofing due to their thickness and durability.
Egress windows
Usually found in basements (though they can be located anywhere in the house), egress windows are often legally required to provide an escape route in an emergency. As a result, they’re large enough for a typical adult to fit through. They’re also often below ground level and surrounded by a window well dug next to the home’s foundation. Most egress windows are casement-style windows, and they’re typically added more for function than style.
When to choose: When you must legally include an exit from an interior room in your home.
Skylight windows
Set into the roof of your home, skylight windows resemble awning windows that tilt upward. When closed, they allow in light, but when extra ventilation is needed, they can be opened to allow hot air to rise up and escape the house.
When to choose: When your home has a hot, stuffy attic or top-floor rooms and could benefit from more passive climate control.
Round windows
Sometimes called a rose window, these are fixed, circular windows, usually with metal grids dividing them into sections. They’re purely ornamental and usually have to be custom-made for your space.
When to choose: When your home design calls for it.
Radius windows
Sometimes called “arched” windows, these windows have a rectangular bottom and a rounded top section so that the whole window resembles an archway. They’re typically fixed, but can be made to open as well. They’re typically custom windows, so they can be very expensive, but they add a touch of sophistication to any home.
When to choose: When you feel like you need some extra pop in your window design.
Oriel windows
An oriel window is similar to bow and bay windows in that they encase an outcropping from the main structure, creating additional interior space. Unlike bay or bow windows, oriels are squared-off and can provide maximum light penetration, offering panoramic views of the outside.
When to choose: When you want as much sunlight as you can handle.
Cottage windows
Cottage-style windows are rectangular windows with two sashes—a larger bottom sash that is typically openable and a smaller top sash that is typically fixed. They bring powerful charm to any home.
When to choose: When you want a touch of old-school charm, or when you need smaller windows due to space limitations.
Slider windows
Sliding windows are like pocket doors: The sashes slide to the left or right. You can find them in double- or triple-sash configurations, and they’re great for rooms where you don’t have much vertical space to work with.
When to choose: When you can’t fit a traditional vertical window in the space you have.
Picture windows
Picture windows are large fixed windows—they don’t open—that frame a view so that it almost looks like a picture hanging on your wall. They provide lots of light and give you a view of something—your garden, for example.
When to choose: When seeing the view is more important than ventilation.
Tilt-and-turn windows
Found primarily in Europe, tilt-and-turn windows can be opened from side hinges, like a door or casement window but also from the bottom, like a hopper window. This makes them incredibly flexible, as you can open them in different ways depending on the weather.
When to choose: When you have variable climate conditions and feel like you need a different window depending on the weather.
Getting your garage workshop in shape or setting up a good place to service and maintain your vehicle is a popular summer project. And while adding storage, organization, work surfaces, and all the other details that make your garage a great place to work on your passion projects—instead of just a place to park your car—can get pricey, there are cheaper-but-effective ways to go about it. Here are five garage upgrades you can DIY for less than $100.
Add a sawhorse table
Putting together a work bench or a shop table doesn’t need to be expensive. You can craft a functional and foldable bench by using two sawhorses ($54.99) and two or three two by 12s ($14.64 for an eight foot board) or a sheet of plywood ($38.54). You could also choose to use a leftover piece of countertop material from another project, or any material rigid enough to span your sawhorses while you work. A sawhorse table top can be clamped or bolted down to keep it from sliding around while you’re using it, but you should make sure that your top is removable so it can be stowed when you aren’t using it.
To add a small workbench space to your garage, consider repurposing a potting bench ($86.99). A potting bench gives you a small work surface and some shelving, without taking up too much floor space, and can be used for more than just potting plants. You can use it to work on DIY projects, for sorting parts, or for any project where a small work surface will come in handy. (You can, of course, also use it for potting plants.)
Add some shelving
If you use your garage for storage, adding shelves will help you keep things organized and free up floor space. Freestanding shelves ($69.98) can sit on the floor anywhere you want to put them. You can also opt for wall-mounted shelves ($79.99) for a slimmer storage solution. Wall mounted shelves don’t need open floor space to be installed, so they’re a good solution for areas where your floor space is really at a premium.
Give your garage door a fresh look
To upgrade your garage exterior, you can paint most two car garage doors with as little as one gallon of exterior paint. If your door is in good shape and not peeling, you can even probably get away with using just a paint/primer combo. (If the door is beginning to show some wear, you should also apply a coat of primer before you paint. Scuff up the surface before you begin with some fine grit sandpaper to help your paint to adhere to the garage door surface better.
Add better lighting
Brightening things up, especially if you use your garage as a home workshop, can really make a big difference to the utility of the space. Hanging some utility lights ($69.99 for four) can allow you to have customized lighting for all your workshop needs. Choosing a light that can be linked together will minimize the number of outlets you need to install them. Make sure to read the manufacturer information on how many lights can be added to one outlet to avoid overloading your circuit.
If you’re just starting to build a cordless tool library, starting out with a combination of batteries and tools is the way to go. And for many of us who use cordless tools often, it's worth having at least two batteries to swap out when you run out of juice. Batteries and chargers can obviously get expensive though, which makes these Home Depot Memorial Day sales all the more attractive. Through the holiday weekend, you can get free tools after buying a starter battery kit.
This two-battery Ryobi starter kit is great
The Ryobi two-battery starter kit comes with a charger, a 4 amp hour battery, and a 2 amp hour battery. The two-battery kit is compatible with 18 volt Ryobi One tools and batteries, and is on sale right now for $99, 50% off its regular price.
This is a good beginner’s kit if you’re working on small to medium projects, plan to use one or two tools at a time, and don’t mind swapping batteries as you work. If you plan to use more tools or want the added speed and convenience of having a battery for each tool, you’ll need a larger kit.
Some of the tools you can get free with this kit include:
There’s also an opportunity to get a free 4 amp hour battery with the purchase of the two-battery kit. This battery costs $99 on its own, so it’s a good deal—especially if you need to replace old batteries or are looking to upgrade to faster-charging lithium ion batteries.
This three-battery Ryobi starter kit is on sale too
The Ryobi three-battery starter kit comes with one charger, two 4 amp hour batteries, and one 2 amp hour battery. The three battery kit is on sale for $199, 45% off its regular price, and also comes with a choice of free tools.
This is a good kit for medium-sized projects. Having three batteries allows you to run two tools simultaneously and still have a freshly charged one ready to go. For jobs that require multiple tools, this kit will allow you to work faster and more efficiently.
Here are a few of the best free tools you can get with your three-battery kit:
There are lots of other tools that you can get free with the purchase of a battery starter kit, so if there’s something in particular you’re looking for, check the full list. Remember that these tools and battery kits are compatible with the Ryobi One 18 volt system only; other brands or voltages won’t work with them.
If you need tools but not batteries
If you already have batteries but need some tools, these deals might not be your best option. Even if you're getting something for free, buying a battery kit you don't exactly need can be more expensive than just buying the specific tools you do need.
With summer grilling and get-togethers gearing up for warm weather, you might want more (or better) outdoor furniture. But getting your patio ready for guests can be expensive, so here are some deals to help you get the outdoor space of your dreams, even if you’re on a tighter budget.
Table and chair sets on sale for Memorial Day
You should have a good place to sit outdoors for summer gatherings. Here are a few of the best deals:
The Ashbury Hill 4-piece wicker and aluminum set is on sale for $599, 67% off its regular price. The set includes three chairs and a coffee table; you’ll need to do the assembly yourself.
The Harmony Cove 4-piece steel sling set is on sale for $150, 63% off its regular price. The set includes a coffee table, bench seat, and two chairs.
The Geneva 6-piece sectional with ottoman/coffee table set is on sale for $566, 55% off its regular price. The sectional has wicker-backed seats with cushions, as well as an ottoman that can double as a coffee table.
Patio umbrellas on sale for Memorial Day
Keep the sun in check with a patio umbrella that will give you some shade on hot summer days, as well as protect your picnic from a light drizzle.
The Hampton Bay 10-foot aluminum patio umbrella is on sale for $283, 55% off its regular price. It comes with a base and cantilevered pole so it can be added to seating areas or tables without an accommodation for an umbrella base.
The Style Well 8-foot steel patio umbrella is on sale for $72, 60% off its regular price. This umbrella does not come with a base, but it does have a cantilevered pole for easy placement.
The Joyesery 180-pound patio umbrella base is on sale for $55, 42% off its regular price. The base needs to be filled with water or sand before use, and it can be used with a cantilevered umbrella.
Lounges and couches on sale for Memorial Day
Having some comfortable seating for enjoying your outdoor space can make your yard a destination instead of just a stop along the way. Here are some seating deals that will cozy up your patio or deck:
The Beacon Park wicker loveseat is on sale for $195, 74% off its regular price. It comes with outdoor cushions.
The Hampton Bay outdoor chaise lounge set is on sale for $357, 55% off its regular price. The set of two lounges has fabric sling backs and seats and a wicker frame.
The Heather Glen outdoor lounge is on sale for $149, 50% off its regular price. It has a metal frame and comes with cushions.
Patio sale items for less than $25
If your budget is especially tight but you still want to freshen up your outdoor space for summer, here are some deals:
The average person spends about 10 hours a day sitting. Yes, all that sitting is very, very bad for you in terms of your health—but it can also be bad for the floor in your home office if you’re rolling around in a standard desk chair. Anyone who has spent any time in a rolling chair knows that they can slowly do real damage to your floors, either by scratching up hardwoods or denting carpet and pulling up fibers, which then get jammed into the chair wheel, reducing its mobility.
You can throw down a plastic mat to protect your floors and make your chair move more easily, but then you have the fun of rolling off the mat and becoming marooned until you stand up to adjust your position. Instead of living with this kind of irritation, there’s a low-cost, low-effort solution: Buy better office chair wheels. They don’t cost much and they’re relatively easy to swap out.
Hard vs. soft
Your first consideration is the type of flooring your chair will be rolling over:
For soft surfaces, like carpeting or rugs, go for wheels that are made from hard materials like plastic. These basic chair wheels from Shepherd, for example, will cut through carpet effectively.
For harder surfaces (hardwood or tiled floors, for example), you want a softer wheel made from something like rubber, polyurethane, or neoprene. Softer wheels won’t mark or scratch your floors and will move much more smoothly on hard surfaces than plastic wheels. These are also a good choice if you’re going to use a chair mat.
Next, you have a choice between a single- or double-wheel style for your office chair:
Single-wheel casters won’t collect dirt, hair, and fibers the way double-wheel casters can. Single-wheel or rollerblade-style casters like these from Slipstick are a lot easier to keep clean in general, and offer smooth movement. However, single-wheel casters can be more difficult to turn and maneuver, so if you are constantly rolling around your workspace they may prove frustrating.
Dual-wheel casters may collect a lot of dirt, but they offer better weight capacity and stability, as well as improved turning for both hardwood floors and carpet.
Another option is a globe-style caster. These can work well on hard surfaces and low-pile carpet, and offer a high-level of mobility and smooth movement while protecting surfaces from marks or scuffs. If you want to glide around your office like a ballerina, globe-style casters are your best choice.
Larger diameter wheels (3-inch diameter or larger) are ideal for thicker carpet. The larger wheels, whether in double-wheel or rollerblade-style models, offer better clearance over carpet pile, reducing friction and improving movement.
Smaller diameter wheels (less than 3 inches) are better-suited for hard, smooth surfaces like hardwood and tile.
While replacing cabinets can be expensive, if you have some wall space, or even some space in front of a window, you can add some shelves for less than $100—you just need these brackets ($49.99) and a 1x12 inch board ($33.28) to make a three-shelf fixture with a spot for hooks ($6.99) to hang kitchen utensils or mugs.
Since the bracket width is adjustable, these shelves are also perfect for spanning a window, like the one over your sink, to add storage in a tight space.
While you might not be able to overhaul your whole kitchen lighting system, you can update your fixtures easily enough. If you have a metal fixture, you can paint it with spray paint ($11.48) to give it a new finish. You can also try swapping out the shades ($31.99 for 6) or globes ($43.75 for 3) for an update to an existing light fixture.
When choosing new shades or globes, double check that you are getting the right size and attachment type for your fixture, and be wary of any products that don’t include that information in the product description. If you want something totally new, you can also swap your old fixture for a new one ($58.89).
Maximize your cabinet storage
Making the most of your existing cabinet storage can make your kitchen more practical without costing you much money. Choosing customizable hardware, like this pots and pans organizer ($20.98) will make it easier to fit your kitchen utensils in your existing storage space. You can also try these adjustable shelf pull-outs ($35.99) to make it easier to keep things at the back of your cabinet organized, and make it simpler to use all of your storage space.
To wrangle smaller items like spices and utensils, you can try these stackable storage baskets ($39.99) with a pull-out drawer design. Adding functionality to your kitchen can improve your daily experience while keeping your budget in check.
While you might not be able to replace your countertops for less than $100, you can give them a makeover.
Using a countertop refinishing kit, you can add an epoxy finish to your existing countertops. Refinishing kits come in faux granite ($66.76), patterns ($89.95) and solid colors ($49.98). Most kits will cover a 25 to 50 square foot area, but check the product label for coverage details so you get a kit that will work for your space. (While this project is definitely DIY accessible, you should be prepared to not use your countertops for three or four days to allow for proper curing time.)
Give your furniture a new look
Whether you have bar stools at your kitchen island, chairs at a kitchen table, or a bar cart for drinks, you can give your current furniture a makeover for much less than replacing it. For metal furniture, a can of spray paint ($6.04) can go a long way—just make sure to clean your surface and sand it with a fine grit sandpaper ($9.66) in order to create a good surface for your paint to bond to. You can revitalize wooden stools or table tops by adding a stenciled detail or some stripes.
To stencil your wooden furniture, choose a stencil ($15.99 for two) and some paint ($16.48), then use a stencil brush ($8.99 for three various sizes) to apply your paint. To get a clear outline from your stencil, tape it in place with some painter’s tape and use a dabbing motion with your brush. (If you’re not sure how your image will come out, you can practice on a piece of cardboard first before tackling the furniture.) For repeating patterns, make sure you get at least two stencils to make lining them up easier.
While most acrylic or interior latex paint is okay to use on wood furniture, using a product that’s designed for furniture, especially in a kitchen, is a good idea. Alternatively, a stenciling project is a good way to use up leftover paint from another project, so you can also opt to add a clear coat ($16.48) to seal your surface when you’re done painting. To add a stripe, use a straight edge to run a line of painter’s tape ($4.49) to each side of where you want the stripe. Then, use a brush ($7.95 for five various sizes) to apply your paint between your tape lines.
There are all kinds of things that can affect air quality, including smog being trapped low to the ground by atmospheric conditions, industrial accidents, dust storms, volcanic eruptions, and wildfire smoke. While there’s nothing you can do to avoid breathing the air, you can be prepared for an air quality event and put together a kit to keep yourself and your family safe.
Find your local air quality monitor
You can access up-to-date air quality information on airnow.gov. The site can either use your device’s location or you can enter your zip code to find your local air quality. There are two features on the site—a dial and an interactive map—but the map is the more important feature because the tools it uses to analyze air quality are sometimes more advanced than the simple dial. You can also tune in to local news and weather to get updates on your air quality forecast.
Keep your doors and windows closed
If you determine that your local air quality is bad, you can help to mitigate the effects on your indoor air quality by keeping doors and windows closed. Limiting the circulation of outdoor air into your home can help to improve the air you’re breathing inside and allow HVAC and air purifiers to work better to clean the air.
Build an air quality emergency kit
To prepare for an air quality emergency, you should build yourself a kit that has items you will need and keep it in an accessible area for quick access. Your kit should include:
When building your kit, masks and respirators should have a NIOSH N-95 or P100 marking somewhere on the package to ensure that they are genuine. Make sure that the air filters and air purifiers you’re using are labeled with a MERV or CADR rating. These markings will tell you what type of particles they can handle and how big of a space they can function in. Choose an air purifier that’s designed to tackle the size room you’re using it in.
If you or a family member have lung or heart conditions, it’s important to have a plan for dealing with smoke and other air quality events. Because of the increased risk, you might choose to evacuate to a safer area, or you might have a specific room with extra precautions like an air purifier to retreat to in the event that your air quality becomes dangerous. Consult with your physician about the use of masks or respirators to come up with a plan in case you need to be outdoors.
Clean-up
Removing ash from wildfires or dust from a storm can cause particles to become airborne and pose a hazard to your lungs. Use gloves, an N95 mask or P100 respirator, and safety goggles to keep irritants and debris from posing a health risk. When cleaning up, you should wet down or dampen ash to reduce its likelihood of becoming airborne. You should also avoid using leaf blowers that can kick dust and ash up into the air. If you have ash in your yard, lightly watering your lawn will stick the ash to the ground and keep it from inundating storm drains. For cleaning up indoor areas, use a vacuum with a HEPA filter to keep from kicking particles up into the air. You might need to change your HVAC and vehicle air filters after an air quality event, as they can become clogged more quickly.
It’s easy to love your roof when it’s relatively new and doing its job. How long that honeymoon period of roofing affection lasts depends a lot on the type of roof you have over your head—while some roofing systems, like metal roofs or slate tile roofs, can last for more than 50 years with proper maintenance, those of us who have flat or low-slope roofs on our homes aren’t so lucky. While flat-roof systems have an official lifespan of about 25 years, anyone who actually has a flat roof knows you’re lucky if you get a decade out of them before they start to leak and otherwise show their age. There’s a reason roofing companies always offer a 10-year warranty on these roofs, after all.
Even on a flat roof, the most common sources of leaks are the seams—spots where there are changes in plane, flashing, skylights, or vent pipes. If your roof starts leaking those are the places where you begin your inspection, so it makes sense that if you eliminate the seams, you eliminate the problem. If you have a flat roof on your house that needs to be repaired or replaced, it’s worth it to consider what’s known as a seamless roof system or a monolithic roof.
What is a seamless roof systems?
A seamless roof system (sometimes called a “monolithic” roof) is just what it sounds like: A roofing membrane that is one continuous layer without any seams. These systems are self-flashing, meaning they don’t require any additional seals around vents or chimneys. It’s typically applied in one of two ways:
Liquid. Many seamless roofing systems are applied as a liquid (silicone, acrylic, or urethane), often using reinforcing materials made from fiberglass to increase strength. The liquid is rolled or sprayed onto the roof surface and worked into all seams and gaps, then dries to a seamless and waterproof finish.
Spray foam. Another approach is sprayed-on polyurethane foam, which expands into all voids and seams, sealing them off, then dries to form a sturdy, waterproof layer.
It’s important to note that these aren’t just the roof coatings you can buy at a hardware store that can help extend the life of your flat roof, which are applied like paint. While the application process can be superficially similar, they’re complex systems that need to be installed precisely in order to get a truly seamless and waterproof result.
When installed as new, many seamless roofing systems involve layers of reinforcing membrane that are sandwiched between liquid applications. But these roof systems can also be applied over an existing flat roof, if the roof is still in decent shape, including shingled roofs, metal roofs, or rubber roofs—as long as they’re low-slope or flat. Roofs with a lot of pitch can still have a seamless system applied, but the results are usually less than ideal, as these systems are designed for flat areas. Companies like Kemper System and Everseal have roofing systems that involve repairing and reinforcing an existing flat roof and then applying a monolithic coating that seals everything into a seamless installation, typically with a warranty between 20 and 50 years.
Benefits
Seamless roofing systems offer a lot of advantages over traditional roofs:
Durability. As noted, warranties for seamless roof systems can be as long as 50 years, and typically last at least 20 years without the need for notable maintenance or repair. Seamless roofing systems are flexible—they expand and contract in the heat and cold along with your roof, which reduces the chances of cracking or other leaky damage.
Energy efficiency. These roofing systems act as reflective barriers that keep your roof cool and protect the roofing deck from damaging solar radiation. This extends the life of the roof and also helps keep the house cooler, reducing energy costs.
Costs. The low maintenance and long life of a seamless roofing system usually translates to a lower cost over time, since you won’t need to have roofers come by every few years to fix up leaks, or replace the roof every decade or so.
When you buy something, you can do what you like with it—within reason. When it comes to our property, we might assume that “within reason” generally covers anything that doesn’t impact someone else’s property or safety, so when you get the urge to go digging around in the dirt, it’s no one’s business but ours. But whether you’re establishing a garden, trying to remember where you buried the ransom money, or launching a spectacular landscaping project, you shouldn’t just run out there and start digging. And, legally, you can’t. The reasons you should think twice about digging on your own property go beyond your local laws and involve your health, your safety, and your insurance premiums.
It’s harder than you think
First of all, digging is very hard physical labor. Sure, TV shows make it seem like digging a 6x6 hole in the ground to hide bodies is something one person can accomplish in a few sweaty hours, but the truth is very different. Just like shoveling snow, digging is a workout; in fact, digging a hole in your yard can be even harder than shoveling snow because your yard is not just a big cube of uniform dirt. It’s laced with roots, rocks, and man-made infrastructure (more on that below), which means you’re likely to hit something more challenging than mere dirt. You should learn about proper digging technique while also making sure you hydrate, wear protective gear (e.g., gloves and a breathing mask), and protect yourself from direct sunlight while you work.
You probably need a permit
Laws vary from area to area, but chances are really high that you’ll need to get a permit before you dig—even if you’re digging on your own property. Most local governments require digging permits for the same reasons they require permits for a lot of other projects. The permitting process not only alerts the local authorities that you’re doing work with the potential to impact the rest of the community, it also triggers the inspection process that ensures you’ve done the work to the correct standard.
Utility lines
One of the main reasons you shouldn’t just go digging on your property, though, is because of buried utilities. Gas lines, water lines, and even electrical lines may crisscross under your property, and if you hit one with your spade, auger, or other tool, you could cause a lot of damage, disruption, and even injury.
Just about every area of the country legally requires you to “call before you dig,” usually by calling 811 (or using an online equivalent). The utility companies will send out an inspector who will mark the location of utility lines with different paint colors so you can avoid them when you actually commence your digging project.
Even if you think you can get away without checking on this, you shouldn’t. Many utility lines are just a few feet underground, which makes them very easy to hit accidentally. If you flood your neighborhood or cause a gas leak, you might be held liable for damages, and if you failed to call 811 before digging, your own insurance probably won’t cover the claim.
Other buried stuff
It’s not just utility lines you have to worry about, either. At least when you call 811 those lines get marked for you—there can be a lot of stuff under the ground on your property that you may or may not be aware of, like:
Storage tanks
Septic systems
Irrigation or sprinkler systems
Swimming pool pipes or wiring
Old oil tanks
If you aren’t the original owner of the property, you may not be aware of old stuff like this, especially if the home was switched to community sewer or went from oil to gas heat at some point. You can try to do some research to find out what might be out there, but regardless, you should proceed with caution and never assume you’re just digging into dirt.
Another potential danger you might encounter when digging on your property is pet graves. Laws vary, but people often bury beloved pets on their property, but over time, grave markers can get washed away, leaving you to stumble on a gruesome surprise. Few people will disclose a pet cemetery on their property, so if you’re not the original owner, you should take the possibility into account before you break ground.
Shifting and subsidence
Finally, digging always carries a risk of ground shifting or subsidence. If you’re digging a hole that’s deep enough to stand in, you’re digging a hole that might collapse and entomb you. Again, the movies make digging deep holes look stable and straightforward, but the fact is you have no idea how the ground on your property will react to having a large portion of it removed.
If you’re thinking of adding a tree to your landscape, whether you want to create shade, provide an animal habitat, or just for looks, there’s a better alternative you might not have considered. Rather than just one, why not plant a few trees spaced closely together? A "pocket forest" like this can add increase the biodiversity of your yard, provide runoff control for water, and cool the surrounding landscape. Here’s how they work, and how to go about planting one.
What is a pocket forest?
A pocket forest is a densely planted mini-forest that’s made up of multiple native species of trees. The goal of this compact forest is to add dense plants for shade, animal habitat, and erosion control to your yard. (If you don’t have space for trees, you can grow a thicket, or a densely planted grouping of native shrubs.)
Mini forests are also nice to look at, and they can improve the view and enjoyment of your yard without the intense maintenance required by a lawn. Although the initial investment in a pocket forest might be more than a lawn, they can save you money and time on maintenance while using less water.
How much space do you need for a pocket forest?
A pocket forest can be planted in as little as 200 square feet of space, and though common wisdom says that trees can damage nearby structures, this is not always true, and depends on the species of tree and the growing conditions. With a little pruning, you can safely plant a variety of species relatively close to buildings as long as the trees are properly maintained.
How to choose trees for a pocket forest
In order to plant a pocket forest, you’ll need enough one and two-year-old native tree and shrub saplings to plant your area while leaving two to four feet between each specimen. If you plan to plant near a building, make sure to choose saplings that don’t have invasive root systems.
In order to determine what plants are native to your area, you can consult your local university extension. Your municipal government might also have listings for trees that are native to your location, and be able to recommend trees that are less likely to cause damage if you plan to plant them near a building.
When to plant a pocket forest
Planting should happen during the dormant season in your area to allow plants to establish themselves. Dormancy occurs at different times of year and depends on seasonal temperatures and rainfall in your area, so consider this another opportunity to consult your local university extension for information particular to your climate.
If it’s not dormant season now, luckily there are some things you can do to prepare, like removing existing plants and planning your space.
A timeline for planting a pocket forest
Four months before planting
Choose your space and measure it to plan for how many saplings you’ll need. Plants should be placed between two and four feet from each other, so you can estimate your plant spacing based on that. It’s a good idea to contact your local nursery at this point to let them know in advance approximately how many plants you’ll need and to make sure they have some in stock. At this point, you can also begin removing any existing plants from your chosen area to create optimal conditions for future planting.
Three months before planting
Three months before planting, you should use the “lasagna method” to prepare the ground for your saplings and kill off any remaining plants. To accomplish this, lay down a layer of cardboard over the whole area, followed by a layer of leaf compost or leaf mold. Cover the compost with two to three inches of wood chips.
One month before planting
Now’s the time to pick your plants. Choose native plants that are appropriate for your area, keeping in mind the size of their root systems and sun needs. Since you’ll likely have a pretty big order, getting your plants a little bit ahead of time is a good idea.
Planting
Lay out your plants and arrange them so that they are between two and four feet apart to plan spacing, then then dig your holes and plant your saplings. Though small saplings only require a shovel’s depth hole, you can still save yourself some time by arranging your plants in their containers ahead of time so you don’t run out of space while you’re planting.
After planting
Once your saplings are in the ground, make sure to mark them with a surveyor stake or another easily recognizable marker for future identification and weed removal. This will help to keep from getting your sapling confused with a weed. You can also add some compost to the soil surface or use compost tea to improve the soil to give your new trees a boost.
You should perform structural pruning on your saplings as they grow, removing less healthy, lower branches and branches that are not able to support their own weight. Otherwise, your trees can be left to grow on their own. You can choose to take a hands-off approach to watering your growing pocket forest, knowing that a few of your saplings might die, or you can improve their chances by watering them for the first two or three seasons they’re in the ground. You shouldn’t need to water your native trees once they are established (that is, after the first three years).
Brick is some seriously durable stuff—clay bricks commonly endure for a century or longer, and there are plenty of examples of brick structures that are much older than that. If you have a brick home or a brick facade, you can expect decades of service without much worry.
But nothing lasts forever, and everything has a weakness. In the case of your brick walls, that weakness is the mortar—the cement-like “glue,” visible in the joints between the bricks, that keeps your bricks together. Mortar has a much shorter lifespan—20-30 years, on average—because it’s much more susceptible to weather, especially moisture. Over time, water seeps into the mortar and freezes, cracking the mortar with its expansion. Eventually, the mortar starts to fail, and allows moisture to penetrate behind the brick, leading to eventual failure of the entire system.
If you have a brick wall that is starting to look pretty janky, the good news is that the fix is probably pretty easy and inexpensive: You just need to repoint.
Repointing
When masons refer to “pointing,” they’re talking about the mortar laid between the bricks. “Repointing” is just what it sounds like: removing damaged mortar and putting in fresh mortar to replace it. The process is pretty straightforward, and can be a pretty easy DIY project if you’ve ever worked with masonry tools before.
Determine the type of mortar you need. Modern mortars use portland cement, resulting in an extremely hard cure. That’s fine for modern bricks, which are similarly hard. But older bricks are softer and require a softer mortar that “gives” a little. You can make a good guess using the age of your home—if it’s 50 years old or less, you can go with a standard modern mortar for your repointing project. If it’s older than that you might need to do some research or consult a real mason.
Scrape out the old mortar. Using a cold chisel, a grout saw, or a joint raker, remove a layer of the old mortar. You should remove about twice the width of the vertical brick joint, typically about half an inch. You don’t want to remove too much or you can undermine the structural integrity of the brick.
Push in fresh mortar. Now you refill the joints with fresh mortar and tool it until it’s tamped in well and fills all the voids. Finish the exposed face of the fresh mortar so it looks good.
That’s it—while it takes some patience and a little skill, it’s not a difficult job. Note that you might also hear the term “tuckpointing,” which is a similar process—in fact, the term is often used interchangeably with “repointing,” although they are slightly different. Tuckpointing involves using two mortars of different colors to achieve an aesthetic effect. If all you’re worried about is maintaining your brick, you probably don’t need to worry about tuckpointing.
When to repoint
Even though repointing is relatively easy and inexpensive, you still don’t want to go through the trouble unless you have to. Here are some basic ways to tell if your brick needs to be repointed:
Age. If your brick is a few decades old, it very likely needs repointing—or an inspection, at the very least.
Crumbling mortar. Look at the mortar joints. Have they eroded noticeably (more than a quarter inch)? Are they crumbling into a dry, sandy mess? They need to be scraped out and repointed.
Cracks. If you can see noticeable cracking in the mortar and the brick, it indicates moisture penetration, so repairing the mortar is likely necessary.
Gaps. Can you see spots where the mortar has totally separated from the brick? If so, it needs repairing.
If you’re uncertain, you can perform a quick test: Take a knife or similar tool and scrape the mortar joints. If you can easily remove some of the mortar, it needs repointing, even if it looks superficially okay.
If you've put any amount of work into planting outdoors, the last thing you want is for pests to take up residence and use your yard like their own personal pantry. Unless you take an active approach to warding them off, animals like deer, rabbits, and raccoons can quickly decimate your flowers, fruits, and vegetables.
You probably don't want to spray your space with a bunch of chemicals that can harm you, your plants, or even pests—so try one (or several) of these safer strategies instead.
Build a physical barrier
A fence may be the most effective approach to keeping critters away from your plants, as they can't eat them if they can't reach them. Deer fencing is tall—typically 7 feet—with a narrow weave and can be made of wire or heavy plastic, while chicken wire can keep rabbits away. Make sure your wire fence is at least 4 feet tall, buried 6 inches deep to deter burrowing, and bent away from the garden to prevent jumping and climbing. You can also use domes or chicken wire cages over the tops of your beds. These aren't the most attractive solutions, but they work.
Growing in greenhouses or fenced-in raised beds with high walls can also limit critter damage. Or, if you want a more natural physical barrier, put a spiky bush or hedge native to your area around the plants you want to protect.
Finally, tall grasses and shrubs around the edges of your yard or garden can create a natural barrier to entry while also providing a low-stakes snack option for pests. If they fill up on these plants, they may do less damage to the ones you care more about.
Use smells and tastes they detest
If you're going to plant things critters like to eat, you should also plant some they don't—highly fragrant plants can work well. Rabbits dislike flowers like lilac, zinnias, daffodils, lavender, and snapdragons as well as onions and garlic. Sage and other herbs can also keep critters away. For deer, try placing containers of mint around the edges of your garden, as they are repelled by the smell. Anything textured or spiky can also act as a natural deterrent.
Aside from plants, there are other smells and natural substances that can repel critters. Farmer's Almanac has a long list of suggestions for rabbits (and another for deer) but some of the most common are talcum powder, Irish Spring soap, and cayenne pepper, which can be mixed with water and sprayed around your plants or garden beds. Peppermint oil applied to hard surfaces or mint tea bags placed near plants may repel deer. Make sure you reapply after it rains.
Scare them away (gently)
Startling critters when they enter your yard or approach your garden may deter them from getting close to your plants. Motion-activated lights and sprinklers that can easily be moved to different locations are a good option, such as solar-powered lights that stake into the ground. If you have a rabbit problem, try small mirrors or jars filled with water in and around your garden may scare them off. Ultrasonic devices can also deter deer without hurting them.
Keep your yard tidy
A neat yard offers fewer options for critters to take up residence. Consider keeping compost in a closed bin, and clean up piles of brush and leaves. Fill in holes that could be rabbit dens, and block entry to the space under your deck or porch.
Of course, none of these methods are foolproof, and some may work only temporarily or in combination with one another. It's best to be realistic about the problem and effectiveness of solutions.
Finally, keep in mind that some creatures can actually be beneficial for your yard, as they both enhance the diversity of your outdoor ecosystem and keep harmful pests at bay. For example, birds can be effective pollinators and provide pest control services by eating mosquitos, aphids, and even rodents. Toads, frogs, lizards, and worms can also help your garden grow.
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