A kitchen remodel can be expensive, especially with renovation costs predicted to stay stubbornly high for the foreseeable future. But getting more out of your kitchen doesn't take waiting for interest rates to go down. Here are five simple DIY projects you can undertake to improve your kitchen while spending less than $100.

Hang some shelves

While replacing cabinets can be expensive, if you have some wall space, or even some space in front of a window, you can add some shelves for less than $100—you just need these brackets ($49.99) and a 1x12 inch board ($33.28) to make a three-shelf fixture with a spot for hooks ($6.99) to hang kitchen utensils or mugs.

Since the bracket width is adjustable, these shelves are also perfect for spanning a window, like the one over your sink, to add storage in a tight space.

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Update your light fixtures

While you might not be able to overhaul your whole kitchen lighting system, you can update your fixtures easily enough. If you have a metal fixture, you can paint it with spray paint ($11.48) to give it a new finish. You can also try swapping out the shades ($31.99 for 6) or globes ($43.75 for 3) for an update to an existing light fixture.

When choosing new shades or globes, double check that you are getting the right size and attachment type for your fixture, and be wary of any products that don’t include that information in the product description. If you want something totally new, you can also swap your old fixture for a new one ($58.89).

Maximize your cabinet storage

Making the most of your existing cabinet storage can make your kitchen more practical without costing you much money. Choosing customizable hardware, like this pots and pans organizer ($20.98) will make it easier to fit your kitchen utensils in your existing storage space. You can also try these adjustable shelf pull-outs ($35.99) to make it easier to keep things at the back of your cabinet organized, and make it simpler to use all of your storage space.

To wrangle smaller items like spices and utensils, you can try these stackable storage baskets ($39.99) with a pull-out drawer design. Adding functionality to your kitchen can improve your daily experience while keeping your budget in check.

Stackable 2-Tier Under Sink Cabinet Organizer

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Refinish your countertops

While you might not be able to replace your countertops for less than $100, you can give them a makeover.

Using a countertop refinishing kit, you can add an epoxy finish to your existing countertops. Refinishing kits come in faux granite ($66.76), patterns ($89.95) and solid colors ($49.98). Most kits will cover a 25 to 50 square foot area, but check the product label for coverage details so you get a kit that will work for your space. (While this project is definitely DIY accessible, you should be prepared to not use your countertops for three or four days to allow for proper curing time.)

Give your furniture a new look

Whether you have bar stools at your kitchen island, chairs at a kitchen table, or a bar cart for drinks, you can give your current furniture a makeover for much less than replacing it. For metal furniture, a can of spray paint ($6.04) can go a long way—just make sure to clean your surface and sand it with a fine grit sandpaper ($9.66) in order to create a good surface for your paint to bond to. You can revitalize wooden stools or table tops by adding a stenciled detail or some stripes.

To stencil your wooden furniture, choose a stencil ($15.99 for two) and some paint ($16.48), then use a stencil brush ($8.99 for three various sizes) to apply your paint. To get a clear outline from your stencil, tape it in place with some painter’s tape and use a dabbing motion with your brush. (If you’re not sure how your image will come out, you can practice on a piece of cardboard first before tackling the furniture.) For repeating patterns, make sure you get at least two stencils to make lining them up easier.

While most acrylic or interior latex paint is okay to use on wood furniture, using a product that’s designed for furniture, especially in a kitchen, is a good idea. Alternatively, a stenciling project is a good way to use up leftover paint from another project, so you can also opt to add a clear coat ($16.48) to seal your surface when you’re done painting. To add a stripe, use a straight edge to run a line of painter’s tape ($4.49) to each side of where you want the stripe. Then, use a brush ($7.95 for five various sizes) to apply your paint between your tape lines.

There are all kinds of things that can affect air quality, including smog being trapped low to the ground by atmospheric conditions, industrial accidents, dust storms, volcanic eruptions, and wildfire smoke. While there’s nothing you can do to avoid breathing the air, you can be prepared for an air quality event and put together a kit to keep yourself and your family safe.

Find your local air quality monitor

You can access up-to-date air quality information on airnow.gov. The site can either use your device’s location or you can enter your zip code to find your local air quality. There are two features on the site—a dial and an interactive map—but the map is the more important feature because the tools it uses to analyze air quality are sometimes more advanced than the simple dial. You can also tune in to local news and weather to get updates on your air quality forecast.

Keep your doors and windows closed

If you determine that your local air quality is bad, you can help to mitigate the effects on your indoor air quality by keeping doors and windows closed. Limiting the circulation of outdoor air into your home can help to improve the air you’re breathing inside and allow HVAC and air purifiers to work better to clean the air.

Build an air quality emergency kit

To prepare for an air quality emergency, you should build yourself a kit that has items you will need and keep it in an accessible area for quick access. Your kit should include: 

• A few N-95 masks or P100 respirators for use when you’re outdoors

• Two to three extra MERV-13 HVAC filters

• A HEPA filter portable air purifier

• Safety goggles and gloves for clean-up

When building your kit, masks and respirators should have a NIOSH N-95 or P100 marking somewhere on the package to ensure that they are genuine. Make sure that the air filters and air purifiers you’re using are labeled with a MERV or CADR rating. These markings will tell you what type of particles they can handle and how big of a space they can function in. Choose an air purifier that’s designed to tackle the size room you’re using it in.

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Make a health plan

If you or a family member have lung or heart conditions, it’s important to have a plan for dealing with smoke and other air quality events. Because of the increased risk, you might choose to evacuate to a safer area, or you might have a specific room with extra precautions like an air purifier to retreat to in the event that your air quality becomes dangerous. Consult with your physician about the use of masks or respirators to come up with a plan in case you need to be outdoors.

Clean-up

Removing ash from wildfires or dust from a storm can cause particles to become airborne and pose a hazard to your lungs. Use gloves, an N95 mask or P100 respirator, and safety goggles to keep irritants and debris from posing a health risk. When cleaning up, you should wet down or dampen ash to reduce its likelihood of becoming airborne. You should also avoid using leaf blowers that can kick dust and ash up into the air. If you have ash in your yard, lightly watering your lawn will stick the ash to the ground and keep it from inundating storm drains. For cleaning up indoor areas, use a vacuum with a HEPA filter to keep from kicking particles up into the air. You might need to change your HVAC and vehicle air filters after an air quality event, as they can become clogged more quickly.

If you would like to plant a tree in your yard but you’re not sure that you have the space because you've heard it's a bad idea to plant a tree too close to your house, you’re in luck.

While some types of trees definitely shouldn't be planted near your home because their roots can damage your foundation, other varieties actually are safe to plant, even relatively close to a structure. Here are five of your best options, as well as a few to avoid.

Crabapple

Crabapple (Malus sp.) trees usually mature at a height of about 20 feet and have a non-invasive root system, meaning it’s not likely to damage your foundation. There are about 1,000 varieties of crabapple, of which about 100 are commonly available for planting in the U.S. These trees can thrive in U.S. agricultural zones 3 through 8, and will produce white or pink flowers in spring, and fruit that’s usually less than two inches in diameter. If you choose a plant that’s native to North America, like Malus coronaria, Malus fusca, or Malus ioensis, the flowers are good for pollinators and the fruit is good for native birds, so they can bring wildlife to your yard as well.

Dogwood

Twelve species of the flowering Dogwood (Cornus sp.) are native to North America and can flourish in USDA zones 5 through 9. They grow at a moderate rate, about 12 to 24 inches a year, and reach a height and width of 15 to 20 feet in the sun, and 40 feet or more in the shade. Because of their slow growth rate, relatively gentle roots, and easy pruning, dogwood trees are considered safe to plant near your house.

Serviceberry

Serviceberry (Amelanchier sp.) is native to North America, and there are varieties that can thrive in USDA zones 2 through 9. This tree can grow as small as six feet or as tall as 25 feet, and between four and 25 feet wide. They can be trimmed to the size and height of a shrub, or allowed to mature to their full height. Their relatively small size and non-invasive root structure makes them good for planting near your house, and the flowers, berries, and autumn foliage color make them a wildlife friendly and aesthetically pleasing addition to your landscaping.

Crape Myrtle

You can plant varieties of Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia sp.) trees in USDA zones 6 through 11, and they can grow to be anywhere from six to 30 feet tall and between four and 15 feet wide. These trees, with their brightly colored blooms, are good for planting near structures because their roots aren’t invasive and they tend not to get big enough to cause damage. If you have limited space, you will need to stay on top of pruning the tree, as they can grow up to three feet in a single season. Also take care to check the specific variety of tree you’re choosing to account for the space you’ll need.

American Holly

While the American Holly (Ilex opaca) tree can grow up to 60 feet tall, it can also be pruned and kept to about 25 feet in height. This variety of holly is native to North America and can be planted in USDA zones 5 through 9. It will produce light green to white flowers and its signature bright red berries and is an evergreen, for winter color. It’s known to be safe for planting near structures and makes an excellent habitat for local wildlife.

Trees to avoid planting close to your house

Trees to avoid planting near your house include the white ash (Fraxinus Americana), poplars (Populus sp.), and weeping willows (Salix babylonica). These trees have wide-spreading root systems that can damage foundations, sewer lines, driveways, and slabs. Give them a wide berth of at least 40 or 50 feet from structures to avoid damage.

If you’re thinking of adding a tree to your landscape, whether you want to create shade, provide an animal habitat, or just for looks, there’s a better alternative you might not have considered. Rather than just one, why not plant a few trees spaced closely together? A "pocket forest" like this can add increase the biodiversity of your yard, provide runoff control for water, and cool the surrounding landscape. Here’s how they work, and how to go about planting one.

What is a pocket forest?

A pocket forest is a densely planted mini-forest that’s made up of multiple native species of trees. The goal of this compact forest is to add dense plants for shade, animal habitat, and erosion control to your yard. (If you don’t have space for trees, you can grow a thicket, or a densely planted grouping of native shrubs.)

Mini forests are also nice to look at, and they can improve the view and enjoyment of your yard without the intense maintenance required by a lawn. Although the initial investment in a pocket forest might be more than a lawn, they can save you money and time on maintenance while using less water.

How much space do you need for a pocket forest?

A pocket forest can be planted in as little as 200 square feet of space, and though common wisdom says that trees can damage nearby structures, this is not always true, and depends on the species of tree and the growing conditions. With a little pruning, you can safely plant a variety of species relatively close to buildings as long as the trees are properly maintained.

How to choose trees for a pocket forest

In order to plant a pocket forest, you’ll need enough one and two-year-old native tree and shrub saplings to plant your area while leaving two to four feet between each specimen. If you plan to plant near a building, make sure to choose saplings that don’t have invasive root systems.

In order to determine what plants are native to your area, you can consult your local university extension. Your municipal government might also have listings for trees that are native to your location, and be able to recommend trees that are less likely to cause damage if you plan to plant them near a building.

When to plant a pocket forest

Planting should happen during the dormant season in your area to allow plants to establish themselves. Dormancy occurs at different times of year and depends on seasonal temperatures and rainfall in your area, so consider this another opportunity to consult your local university extension for information particular to your climate.

If it’s not dormant season now, luckily there are some things you can do to prepare, like removing existing plants and planning your space.

A timeline for planting a pocket forest

Four months before planting

Choose your space and measure it to plan for how many saplings you’ll need. Plants should be placed between two and four feet from each other, so you can estimate your plant spacing based on that. It’s a good idea to contact your local nursery at this point to let them know in advance approximately how many plants you’ll need and to make sure they have some in stock. At this point, you can also begin removing any existing plants from your chosen area to create optimal conditions for future planting.

Three months before planting

Three months before planting, you should use the “lasagna method” to prepare the ground for your saplings and kill off any remaining plants. To accomplish this, lay down a layer of cardboard over the whole area, followed by a layer of leaf compost or leaf mold. Cover the compost with two to three inches of wood chips.

One month before planting

Now’s the time to pick your plants. Choose native plants that are appropriate for your area, keeping in mind the size of their root systems and sun needs. Since you’ll likely have a pretty big order, getting your plants a little bit ahead of time is a good idea.

Planting

Lay out your plants and arrange them so that they are between two and four feet apart to plan spacing, then then dig your holes and plant your saplings. Though small saplings only require a shovel’s depth hole, you can still save yourself some time by arranging your plants in their containers ahead of time so you don’t run out of space while you’re planting.

After planting

Once your saplings are in the ground, make sure to mark them with a surveyor stake or another easily recognizable marker for future identification and weed removal. This will help to keep from getting your sapling confused with a weed. You can also add some compost to the soil surface or use compost tea to improve the soil to give your new trees a boost.

You should perform structural pruning on your saplings as they grow, removing less healthy, lower branches and branches that are not able to support their own weight. Otherwise, your trees can be left to grow on their own. You can choose to take a hands-off approach to watering your growing pocket forest, knowing that a few of your saplings might die, or you can improve their chances by watering them for the first two or three seasons they’re in the ground. You shouldn’t need to water your native trees once they are established (that is, after the first three years).

If the weather is warming up where you are, you're probably itching to spend more time outdoors. And if you're the kind of outdoors lover who prefers entertaining to quiet reading sessions in the hammock, you're going to want some some games or other entertainment for you backyard. Fortunately, you don't have to spend a ton to make your outdoor space a destination for your friends and family.

Install a bocce court

In order to add a bocce court, you’ll need a level spot that’s at least 13 feet wide. The length of your court can vary, with regulation courts measuring 91 feet and standard recreational courts measuring 60 feet. Once you’ve selected your bocce court area, you’ll need to tamp down the ground to level the surface exactly and then cover the flattened area with pea gravel ($5.88/5 cubic feet). To frame your bocce court, you can use concrete ($5.71/80 pound bag) and a curb shaper ($18.49) or a mold ($43.90). Finally, you’ll need a set of bocce balls ($16.99) to get the game going.

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Add a tree swing

If you have a big enough tree and enough space for swinging, a tree swing is a must. You can make a simple tree swing with some good quality rope ($22.99/50 feet) and a board ($24.28/ 2 inch by 1 foot by 8 foot board) that’s thick and wide enough for someone to sit on. Just drill through each end of your board and thread the rope through each hole. Then, use a knot below the hole to attach the board to the rope on each side.

Thread through and knot Credit: Becca Lewis

Hang your swing from a branch to finish your swing. You can also use burlap ($14.99) between the rope and the branch to protect the tree bark from getting scraped by the rope. Make sure that you’re choosing a sturdy branch that can stand up to the weight of your swingers to avoid damaging your tree (or your swinger!). The diameter of the branch should be at least three or four inches, but that is also not more than half the diameter of the main trunk and you should choose a branch with no obvious signs of decay like missing bark or insect infestation. Hang your swing no more than halfway to the end of the branch from the trunk of the tree to give yourself a steady spot.

Make a beanbag toss

A beanbag toss is a simple DIY project you can make from one sheet of plywood ($27.38/4 foot by 8 foot sheet) and some beanbags ($16.99). You’ll need to cut four triangles, two tops, and two backs to make a bottomless wedge. You'll then cut three holes in the top of each wedge about three inches in diameter.

Beanbag toss parts Credit: Becca Lewis

Put a bead of wood glue on the top edge of each of the side pieces and the top edge of the back piece. Then, position the parts with the top piece in place and attach it by nailing or screwing the top piece into the side and back pieces. Finally, nail or screw the back piece into each side.

Beanbag toss exploded parts Credit: Becca Lewis

Then, sand your parts to eliminate splinters and paint your wedges to your own taste. This can be an excellent opportunity to use up some leftover paint from another project, or you can use a quart-sized exterior paint ($14.98/quart).

Set up a horseshoe court

A horseshoe game is one of the simplest outdoor games to set up. You just need a flat area that’s about 40 feet long by about eight feet wide and a horseshoe set ($34.85). Just hammer your stakes in at either end of a 40-foot span and your court is ready to go. Remember that tossing horseshoes can require some room to swing, and not every horseshoe player will be accurate on every toss, so give yourself a 10-foot distance from buildings and areas where people congregate.

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Make a scoreboard for your games

To make a scoreboard, first start with a board made from plywood or similar wood. Your scoreboard can be any size you want, but should be a rectangle that fits in your recreation area or can be mounted to a post for access and visibility. Depending on the game, you’ll need to keep track of different numbers; howeve, you can make almost any scoreboard using a numbered board with holes and dowels. First, make a grid on your board with the number of players across the top and the number of points along the side. Then, drill a hole in the center of each square in your grind the same size as your dowel. For a half-inch dowel ($2.07/ four foot dowel), you'll drill a half-inch hole. Paint or draw your numbers onto the board for each corresponding dowel position, and then you can track points by moving the dowel up the board as points are scored. This is a great way to use up scraps of material or leftover paint from other projects.

Remembering to change the filters in your HVAC system can be harder than it sounds. In addition to changing them on a regular schedule, per manufacturer instructions, you might need to change filters more frequently if there’s an environmental factor that clogs them up faster. But knowing when to change your filters or keeping up on the date of your last filter change can sometimes fall off your radar. Smart filters for your HVAC system can remind you when they need to be changed—so there’s one less thing you need to keep track of.

Why you need to change your HVAC filters

The filter is designed to remove particles from the stream of air your HVAC system draws into your home for heating and cooling; over time, these particles become lodged in the air filter. They will eventually make it more difficult for your HVAC system to drive air through it, causing the fan to work harder. This can make your whole system less efficient, causing an increase to your energy bill, and it can also shorten the lifespan of your HVAC fan motor because it will run hotter and cause more wear.

Why you would need to change your filters early

Most manufacturers recommend that you replace your HVAC filter at least every 90 days, but to get the best air quality, some recommend swapping filters every 30 days. If you live in a place with high pollen counts, you might need to change your filter seasonally to keep up with the extra particles; if you live in an area that experiences wildfire smoke or excessive smog, your filters might need to be changed after a smoke event to keep your system running smoothly. Another common reason to change your air filter more frequently is if you’ve done construction in your home that caused extra dust. Those particles can clog your filter more rapidly than under normal circumstances.

What is a smart HVAC filter?

Smart HVAC filters have a sensor that reads the air pressure in your HVAC system, detecting the drop in pressure as air moves through the filter. The more debris and particles the filter catches, the lower the air pressure will be on the side of the filter opposite the fan. A smart air filter will keep track of the movement of air past your filter and use an algorithm to determine when it's time to change your filter. Smart filters for your HVAC system will send a signal through an app to your phone or tablet to alert you when it’s time to swap out your filter, and in some cases, can monitor your air flow and give you a timeline for how much longer your filter will last.

Where to find a smart air filter

There are currently two types of smart air filters available. One system is from Filtrete and connects to your phone via Bluetooth to send notifications about your air filter. This system can predict how much longer your air filter will last as well as notifying you when it’s time to change it. The downside to this system is that it doesn’t work with Google Home or Alexa, so you’ll need a separate app to use it that you can download from Google Play and the Apple Store. The other smart filtration system available is from Woosh; this system is designed to be paired with your existing smart thermostat through an app you can download on Google Play and in the Apple Store. The Woosh system will also automatically order a replacement filter insert for you when your current filter needs replacing. Of the two systems, Woosh has a higher initial cost of $149, but then costs $22 per filter insert to replace. Filtrete has a lower initial cost of between $25 and $35 for two filters and the smart device that attaches to the surface of the filter. However, if your goal is to create less waste, the Woosh system uses a frame that’s meant to last a longer time with filter inserts that are smaller and create less waste, while the Filtrete system requires the whole filter to be replaced while you keep only the smart device that attaches to it.

When you’re cleaning your kitchen sink, or deep cleaning your bathroom, there’s an often-overlooked place you might be forgetting. Your kitchen and bathroom faucets can become a breeding ground for mold, bacteria, and damaging mineral build-up.

How often you should clean your faucet head

The faucet head on your sink should be cleaned once to twice a year. If you have hard water, you can clean it as often as once every three months to prevent mineral build-up. The goal is to prevent damage, so giving your faucet a good once-over as soon as you notice any reduced water pressure or irregular flow pattern will help keep your fixture in good working order and extend its life.

Soak your faucet head in vinegar

Using a plastic bag of a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water, submerge your faucet head in the solution and then hold it in place with a rubber band. You can then leave most faucets submerged for about a half hour to an hour, but take care not to leave delicate finishes like chrome, matte finish colored metal, or burnished brass in the bag for more than a half hour to avoid causing damage. Once your faucet is done soaking, use a neutral multipurpose cleanser or some soapy water and a small cleaning brush or a toothbrush to scrub away any dirt, build-up, or debris that’s left. Once you’re done cleaning, make sure to rinse the faucet head by running warm water through it for a minute to wash away any soap or vinegar residue.

Steam your faucet head

You can loosen up mineral build-up as well as take care of dirt on your faucet with steam. Bring water to a boil in your kettle and then aim the steam from the kettle towards your faucet head. Hold it there for a few minutes, allowing the steam to heat up the surface of the faucet. Once the steam has had the chance to work, you can use a toothbrush or small cleaning brush to scrub build-up off of your faucet head. Finally, run warm water through the faucet to rinse it.

Clean your aerator

For this step, you should remove your faucet head. First, turn off the water at the shut-off valves under the sink. Then, twist the head of your faucet counter-clockwise to release it from your tap. You might have a nut that holds the faucet head in place, so if the head doesn’t attach directly to the tap, look for a nut that holds it in place and turn that counter clockwise. Once the head of the faucet is free, you should be able to see the aerator. It will look like a screen with a rubber gasket on the tap side to seal it. This is also a great opportunity to check your rubber o-ring to see if it’s worn and replace it with a new one if it is. Check the aerator for mineral deposits, mold, and debris. You can soak the parts of your faucet head in a 50/50 vinegar solution or use warm soapy water to clean it and then replace the parts, making sure that the faucet head is screwed in snugly and properly seated before turning the water to your sink back on. Run some warm water through the tap for a minute to rinse the aerator and faucet head.

Important tips for cleaning your faucet

Make sure to check manufacturer recommendations when choosing a cleanser for your faucet to avoid damaging the finish. Since some metals can be sensitive to acids or to particular chemicals, you should take care to protect the finish of your fixture when cleaning. Also, it’s a good idea to avoid using harsh cleansers on your faucet—not only to protect the finish, but to avoid damaging the rubber o-rings, valves, or other delicate parts that might not hold up to abrasives or highly acidic substances.

Whether you need to stock up your home hobby shop, or just pick up a few things for a DIY project, you know how costs can quickly add up. If you just need a tool for a single use project, you can check out your local tool library or perhaps borrow a tool from a friend or neighbor, but some tools you’ll want to keep around for multiple projects, and others can get used up or wear out with use, like drill bits and saw blades.

In cases where it does make sense to buy, choosing a good quality tool that will last for years is a smarter investment than buying whatever is cheapest, because it will keep you from needing to replace tools and accessories as frequently. And some great tools from Irwin, a trusted manufacturer, are currently on sale on Amazon.

Clamps

Using clamps while you’re assembling a project will help keep your work steady, and your fingers away from your drill and hardware. Here are some deals on clamps that will make your home projects easier:

• This Irwin 3-inch corner clamp for light duty projects is on sale right for $10.99, 46% off its regular price. For this type of clamp to be practical, you’ll need one for each corner of a rectangular build, or you’ll need to attach each corner and then move your clamp for each attachment point, but at this price you're basically getting two for one.

• The Irwin 24-inch parallel jaw box clamp for woodworking projects is on sale for $42.78, 55% off its usual price. These clamps are good for keeping your parts level and snug while you’re attaching pieces or waiting for glue to dry.

• The Irwin 6.5-inch woodworker’s vise is on sale for $24.98, 46% off its regular price. This vise is useful for holding your parts steady for drilling, precise cutting, and chiseling on light duty projects. It can accept parts that are up to four and a half inches deep.

Vise grips

For holding pieces steady, metal working, and gripping small or hard to reach parts, vise grips are an essential shop staple.

• The Irwin 10-piece locking vise grip set that comes with multiple sizes and styles and sizes of vise grips including 10R, 10CR, 7R, 7WR, 7CR, 5WR, 6LN, 9LN, 6R and 11R locking pliers as well as a bag for carrying and storage is on sale for $131.67, 52% off it’s usual price. The set has two sizes of metal clamping grips, two sizes of needle nosed grips, and six sizes and styles of curved and straight jaw grips for a variety of projects and sizes of hardware and parts.

• The Irwin straight jaw, 7-inch locking pliers are on sale for 13.15, 48% off their normal price. These will accept about one and a half inch of material.

• The Irwin 7-inch curved jaw locking pliers are on sale for $11.49, 55% off their usual price. These pliers can accept up to about 1.5 inches of material, and the jaws are curved for better grip on hardware like bolt heads.

• The Irwin 10-inch welding pliers are on sale for $9.98, 65% off their usual price. These vice grips are designed for quick release, and to be comfortable on your hands.

Drill bits

In addition to getting worn over time, you'll often need a drill bit specific to a particular project, like a long bit, or a bit that’s designed to go through tougher or thicker material. Here are some deals on bits good for a variety of purposes.

• The Irwin 3-piece wood drill bit set comes with a ⅝ inch, ¾ inch, and one inch bit designed for quickly drilling through wood. This set is on sale right now for $9.98, 67% off its regular price. This set is good for speed, and the smaller, threaded tip will help with accuracy.

• The Irwin 15-piece titanium coated steel drill bit set is on sale for $21.55, 55% off its normal price. The bits range in size from 1/16-inch to ⅜ inch in size and have a sharp tip to help keep the bit from skiing while you’re starting your hole.

• The Irwin number 12 countersink wood drill bit is on sale for $8.01, 59% off its regular price. This tapered countersink bit will work for drilling a 3/16  pilot hole, allowing you to drive screws without splitting, and has a fluted base, making room for the head of your screw to be flush with the surface of your lumber.

Tools for measuring and marking

Here are some deals on tools for measuring and marking, which will improve the accuracy of your cuts and keep your projects on track.

• The Irwin 6-inch combination square is on sale for $9.99, 40% off its regular price. A combination square is useful for marking cuts on a chop saw, squaring up factory ends of boards, or precise marking for hardware.

• Irwin 8 oz. chalk line refill is on sale for $0.95, 57% off its regular price. Chalk is used to make straight lines using a chalk line on the surface of boards.

• Irwin 8 oz. high vis chalk line refill is on sale for $1.59, 62% off its regular price. High visibility chalk can be used to make a straight line on a darker surface.

If you’ve ever noticed that the edge of your board gets splintered while you’re cutting, you’re dealing with one of the most common problems for woodworkers: tearout. Tearout can be caused by using the wrong type of saw blade, a dull blade, or from improperly positioned lumber. But sometimes, you can do all these things correctly and still have a splinter problem. Sanding can help if your splintering is minimal, but here are some other methods to help prevent splintering from happening.

How to prevent tearout with a backer board

One of the most common ways to prevent splintering when using a chop saw or miter saw is to use a backer board. This is a simple way to support the grain of your lumber from the back side while cutting. Since the blade on a saw used for cross-cutting spins 90 degrees to the direction of the grain, the blade can tend to pull splinters out on the back side of your board. Place a scrap of wood against the fence of the saw—the part that you push your lumber up against to make your cut—before you position your board. Then, place your board against the scrap and make your cut through both the board and your scrap. The backer board will support the lumber you’re cutting, reducing tearout.

You can also use a backer board on a table saw, but you’ll need a board that’s at least as wide as the cut you’re making for it to work, making this method impractical in some circumstances. To use this method, place the board you’re cutting on top of another piece of lumber before cutting on the table saw. This can help some with tearout on the bottom side of your piece.

Preventing tearout with tape

Tape is another good fix for preventing tearout. If you’re cutting on a table saw, using a strip of masking tape or blue tape on the top side of your board above where the blade is positioned and cutting with the good side down can help prevent tearout. On a circular saw, you can use tape on the bottom side of your board, cutting with the good side up. Be aware that cutting through tape will likely dull your saw blade more quickly, but it might be worth it, depending on how precise you need the edges of your cut to be.

Preventing tearout with scoring

To keep tearout from happening, one helpful method is to score the board along your cut line before cutting. You can do this with a utility knife, a scoring tool, or any blade you have handy by making a groove with your tool using a straight edge along your cut line before making your cut. Essentially what this method does is pre-cut the surface of your board without teeth, making it less likely for the saw blade to catch on splinters as it spins and the teeth exit the board.

Reducing tearout using a router

If tearout prevention methods don’t work or are impractical, you can make a cut that’s an eighth to a quarter inch outside your cut line and then attach a straight board along your cut line and trim the remaining material with a flush trim bit in a router. Since the router blade usually spins perpendicular to your board, a sharp flush trim bit should produce very little tearout. For curved or irregular cuts, you can make a template that’s the exact size and shape of your cut, then use the router to trim your piece to the shape you want using the same method. This is also a good way to make multiple pieces the same size and shape.

Preventing tearout when drilling holes

If you’re using a drill press, clamping a scrap piece of wood onto the foot of your press before drilling can give the bottom of your board’s grain support as the drill bit exits the board. You can reduce splintering using this method with a hand-held drill, too, by clamping a scrap to the back side of your mark, making sure the clamp is clear of the hole, and drilling with the scrap in place. You can also drill a shallow hole on the opposite side of your board and then drill through from the top, reducing the exposed surface grain that needs to be drilled through.

Combining tearout prevention methods

There’s no rule that says you can’t use tape and a backer board and scoring at the same time. Combining methods, especially if you’re trying to make a very clean, precise cut, will decrease tearout even more. You should also make sure your blade is sharp and that you're using the appropriate one for the job you’re doing. If you’re making a cross cut, make sure you have a cross-cut blade on your saw, and if you’re making a rip cut, going with the grain, make sure you have a blade that’s designed for that cut on your saw.