See in the year of the fire horse with a duo of dishes packed full of flavour and symbolism

Christmas is lovely, but my kids think Chinese new year is by far the best holiday. I might be biased, but, unusually, I am inclined to agree with them. As my eldest puts it, “New clothes, cash, booze and food – what’s not to love?” There’s the added bonus that cash is absolutely more than acceptable – in fact, it’s de rigueur, so there’s no shopping for mundane socks and smelly candles. Chinese new year is full of rituals and, just as at Christmas, every family has its own, but they are all variations on a theme. Symbolism looms large in Chinese culture, and at new year it centres around messages of prosperity, luck and family. Symbolism extends naturally to the food, too. The word for “fish’” in Chinese, Mandarin and Cantonese sounds a lot like the word for “surplus”, so to have fish is to have an abundance, to have more than one needs, while dumplings represent wealth on account of their shape. I hope you enjoy these abundantly wealth-wishing recipes. Kung hei fat choi!