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Yesterday — 1 June 2024Main stream

Ask Ottolenghi: what’s the secret to a great burger?

1 June 2024 at 04:30

Follow the simple principles of quality meat, cheese and herbs for the perfect patty – and don’t forget a fresh, tangy sauce

I have never seen an Ottolenghi recipe for a burger, be it meaty or vegetarian. How would you construct and garnish your perfect hamburger?
David, Winnipeg, Canada

That’s such a good spot! To be honest, traditional, full-sized burgers are something I tend to seek out from others - passionate people who flip burgers all day, every day – and my must-have condiments for those are proper burger sauce (that is, two parts mustard, one part mayo and one part ketchup), melting American cheese, pickles, raw white onion and iceberg lettuce. And on those rare occasions when I do make a burger at home, I follow similar principles.

Buy the best-quality meat you can afford. I love lamb in my burger patties, but I’ve also been known to use minced turkey thigh. For a lighter, springier patty, breadcrumbs are the obvious choice, but coarsely grated courgette (squeezed to get rid of excess moisture), grated onion and even mashed potato (as in today’s broad bean burger recipe) work really well, too, along with a beaten egg. Cheese such as ricotta, paneer, manouri and feta are also brilliant in a burger, as in the mix for my lamb and oregano meatballs, which can easily be turned into a patty.

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© Photograph: Ola O Smit/The Guardian. Food styling: Tamara Vos. Prop styling: Anna Wilkins.

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© Photograph: Ola O Smit/The Guardian. Food styling: Tamara Vos. Prop styling: Anna Wilkins.

Before yesterdayMain stream

Spiced fish and herby broad beans: Yotam Ottolenghi’s spring sandwich recipes

30 May 2024 at 03:00

Controversial, maybe, but these sandwich fillings dial up the taste factor and fit pretty well in a soft white roll

If I was forced to choose, I’d say I’m a butter, cheese and pickles man. I love mine open and I tend to go for sourdough, even if that does induce eye-rolls from many. I’m talking, of course, about sandwiches, a subject on which everyone has wonderfully strong opinions. What bread to use? Cut it on the diagonal or straight down the middle? Is it OK for anyone over the age of seven to cut off the crusts? And that’s before you even start discussing what’s going inside. Slices of tomato: sublime or soggy? A handful of crisps: critical or criminal? A lettuce leaf or two: lovely or limp? Fish finger sandwiches: right or wrong? Such seemingly innocent questions, yet ones that incite such firm feelings. (My reply to that last question, incidentally, is revealed by today’s first recipe, which takes the concept, dials it up and feels pretty strongly about the presence of a soft white roll.)

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© Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Kydd. Prop styling: Eden Owen-Jones.

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© Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Kydd. Prop styling: Eden Owen-Jones.

Ask Ottolenghi: how to jazz up a jacket potato

25 May 2024 at 03:30

Think tinned fish, curry, tahini, soft vegetables in butter … and who says the cheese has to be cheddar?

I’m tight on time lately, so want to have more jacket potato dinners. What toppings can I use other than tuna salad or baked beans and cheddar?
Paloma, Colorado, US
The key with the filling for a jacket potato is to use something that is, er, filling (which is why tuna or baked beans work so well) and to have a rich, creamy element that brings everything together, which is why mayonnaise is such a classic combo with tuna and grated cheese with beans.

Try that mayo with a different protein, though – it works especially well with leftover roast chicken, chopped ham or prawns, say. Or use coleslaw instead, maybe with some chopped fried bacon or pancetta mixed in. Or take the sauce in a curried direction with the likes of coronation chicken; for vegetarians, simply replace the chicken with chickpeas or butter beans.

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© Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin

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© Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin

Lime prawns and beetroot salad: Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for the bank holiday

23 May 2024 at 04:00

Kick back, crack open the rosé and enjoy a vibrant, nutty Georgian vegetable paté and grilled lime prawns with courgettes

Whether it’s gorgeous or glacial, I’m determined to eat outside this bank holiday weekend. Fresh air I will find and alfresco I will call it! I’m not even talking a full decamp to the nearest common or heath – picnic planning still feels a bit too wishful; I’m thinking more outside the confines of the kitchen, so garden table, front doorstep, balcony: whatever we have, we should take, I think. Even an open window would count, with a chair perched beside it, plate on knees, searching for the sun.

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© Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Kydd. Prop styling: Eden Owen-Jones.

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© Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Kydd. Prop styling: Eden Owen-Jones.

Ask Ottolenghi: easy sauces to perk up midweek meals

18 May 2024 at 04:30

Make up a big batch of tahini sauce with herbs, quick preserved lemons, experiment with all sorts of pestos, or try zhoug and shatta, two punchy Levantine chilli condiments

I love the green tahini sauce with the roast cauliflower in your book Simple – it livens up even the most joyless of midweek meals. What other easy sauces should I have in my repertoire to give plain dishes a bit of zhoosh?
Joe, Liverpool
I’m so pleased you’ve asked this question, Joe, because sauces and pastes are one of the secrets to exciting home cooking. They’re little flavour bombs, sitting ready in the fridge, to drizzle over or stir into all sorts.

Tahini sauce, green or otherwise, is one of my favourites. If I don’t have herbs at home, or if I just fancy a change, I’ll often mix in some miso or soy for a deep, savoury hit. Or, if I want some chilli heat, I’ll add chilli flakes, harissa or similar chilli pastes such as doubanjiang and gochujang; just remember to add plenty of lemon or lime juice to balance things out.

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© Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian

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© Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian

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