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Today — 18 May 2024Main stream

Eye-tattooing: experts warn about risks of colour-changing surgery

Concerns raised as influencers promote pigment-injection procedure as latest cosmetic trend

From butter boards to viral dances, social media has spawned a host of fads, but experts have warned against the latest trend: eye-tattooing.

The procedure, known as keratopigmentation, is a recent development and can be used for therapeutic purposes to improve the appearance of eyes. This can include for people who have been left with scars on the transparent front part of the eye, known as the cornea, as a result of infection, disease or injury, or who have aniridia, a condition where the iris has not formed properly.

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© Photograph: Michael Siward/Getty Images

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© Photograph: Michael Siward/Getty Images

Yesterday — 17 May 2024Main stream

Does Powder Sunscreen Actually Work?

17 May 2024 at 15:30

Sunscreen does a great job of protecting our skin from rays that can cause skin cancer, as well as thickening and wrinkling of the skin as we age. But it also feels kind of greasy and goopy sometimes, especially when applied to the face, leaving many of us wondering if there might not be a better way to apply it. Sunscreen powders sound like a promising development. But do they work?

What is powder sunscreen?

Sunscreens usually come in a lotion or spray format, but you can also find them in powder form. These products often come in a container with a built-in brush (kind of like a big floofy foundation brush) and tend to be more expensive than traditional sunscreens.

They're sometimes marketed alongside makeup, so you can use them as a setting powder with the extra benefit of SPF. Sometimes they're marketed toward parents of young kids, as an alternative to getting little ones to sit still for a lotion or spray application.

The ingredients are still legit sunscreens, and are typically mineral-based, with something like zinc oxide as the main active ingredient.

Powder sunscreen isn't effective on its own

Ultimately, the problem with any form of sunscreen is that you need to apply a lot of it to get the protection listed on the label—and you need to reapply it according to the directions, which usually means every two hours. A sunscreen lotion is the easiest to apply this way, even though most of us don’t come anywhere near meeting the recommended amounts. (That’s okay, though—if the SPF is high enough, we still get decent protection.)

That brings us to the problem with nontraditional sunscreens. Are you really going to apply enough of it that it can actually work as intended? This is especially unlikely when it comes to combination products. Will you really slather on a thick layer of sunscreen-infused bug spray every two hours? How about a thick layer of SPF-containing foundation?

I think you see where I’m going. Are you going to apply enough powder sunscreen to get the protection you’re looking for, and then reapply it when it’s time? It’s unlikely, especially if the powder is your main form of sunscreen. Below is a video of chemist Michelle Wong applying sunscreen powder to her hand to show how much you would need to get the labeled SPF.

When powder sunscreens make sense

So you won't be able to get the labeled protection from a comfortable layer of powder—does that mean sunscreen powder is useless? Here I must return to the one enduring rule of sun protection: The best sunscreen is the sunscreen you will wear. Powder sunscreens are a better-than-nothing option for reapplying sunscreen over your makeup, and many people will skip reapplying if they don’t have something that works on top of makeup.

Dermatologists recommend applying a layer of normal (cream) sunscreen first, then putting on your makeup; consider powder to be a tool for touch-ups. Unfortunately, it can’t be considered a replacement for your primary sunscreen.

Similarly, for kids, if powder is truly the only way you can get some sunscreen on your squirmy toddler, then a powder is better than nothing. But there are other ways to make sunscreen application easier on little ones—so don't just buy a bottle of powder and consider the problem solved. 

Body Shop stores have closed, but we can’t let its products disappear | Sali Hughes

17 May 2024 at 03:00

Anita Roddick’s visionary brand paved the way for ethical beauty. It would be wrong to lose it now

The first Body Shop opened in my home town of Brighton in 1976. It recently closed, along with hundreds of others. They may yet reopen, but thebodyshop.com is still trading, and I believe passionately that it should be shopped at and saved. Here are just a handful of the many reasons why.

If ethical and sustainable initiatives in retail are now mainstream, it’s because the Body Shop made them so. “You have to go in the opposite direction to everyone else,” wrote founder Anita Roddick in 1992. And that’s precisely what she did. The Body Shop’s radicalism didn’t just change the beauty industry, it changed every consumer industry. It was among the first companies of any type to receive B Corp certification (there are now more than 8,000) – an official acknowledgment that it treated people, profit and planet with equal importance.

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© Photograph: Kellie French/The Guardian

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© Photograph: Kellie French/The Guardian

Before yesterdayMain stream

My Favorite Products for Combating Accutane-Related Dryness

10 May 2024 at 12:00

I've been on a real self-improvement kick lately, which involves everything from reorganizing my entire apartment to getting a Masters degree. Enhancing my environment is nice and juicing up my brain is great, but I'm also a pretty vain and aesthetics-focused person, so I didn't stop there. Even though I'm in my 30s, I decided to finally start Accutane, the famously ass-kicking prescription oral retinoid that acts as a nuclear option for acne and other skin issues. There are two promises that come along with Accutane: It will almost certainly work and it will almost certainly dry out your whole body in the process. Both of these, in my experience, are true. After five months, my skin has never looked better—except that, for now, it's flaky, peeling, cracking, and visibly parched. I knew this going in, so I started messing with various moisturizing and hydrating products right away, especially after my dermatologist told me I could throw out all my old, breakout- and texture-focused skincare since I wouldn't be needing it anymore. Here are the ones that worked best for me.

The best products for lip dryness on Accutane

For me, the most dryness has occurred on my lips, which have been in a perpetual state of chapping since about the third week of Accutane. This has been particularly heartbreaking for me because it has meant lipstick and gloss look straight-up gross, so I've probably put the most work into fixing my lips. My overall pick is the O'Keeffe's Lip Repair Night Treatment ($7.51), which goes on smooth before bed and is still there in the morning.

I've noticed my lips are softer and less dry after using this consistently, but it doesn't necessarily get rid of those flaky parts that stick up around the edges of my mouth. (This is gross, but it's true!) For that, I use the Bath & Body Works lip scrub ($10.95) and follow it up with the brand's Nourishing Lip Mask ($12.95). Don't use the scrub too often, maybe once a week or so, but it will help get rid of some of the lingering effects of chapping. Other products I like for the lips are C.O. Bigelow's My Favorite Night Balm No. 306 ($8.95) and Vanilla Lip Balm ($8.95). Obviously, I prefer overnight solutions here, with the Vanilla Lip Balm being the only thing I really call on for daytime wear, and that's a tip I feel confident sharing: Do as much as you can overnight to make all of this easier.

The best products for facial dryness on Accutane

Obviously, the face dries out, too, so I set about to make sure that while I'm investing all this time and money into getting cuter in the long term, I'm not looking busted in the short term. I have two favorite products for facial dryness, though they're very different in terms of consistency.

First is the Kate Somerville Goat Milk Moisturizing Cream ($76). This goes on thick, which I like for overnight use, and its heaviness makes it effective in sealing in moisture.

Next is the Chanel Hydra Beauty Camellia Water Cream ($64), which I bought after securing my Accutane prescription but before even taking my first pill because, and I self-quote, "I deserve a treat." Luckily, it is a treat: It's super light-weight but still really hydrating, so I put it on in the morning. It's not sticky and it absorbs super fast, but it does have a strong scent, so if that's not your jam, this might not be for you.

Beyond that, I do a sheet mask every few nights, randomly selecting one from Target or H-Mart whenever I'm shopping, and I haven't found one that works better or worse than any others, so feel free to stay on the cheap side if you do that. Some nights, I also add in the DERMA-E Firming DMAE moisturizer ($12.14) because since I'm not focusing all of my skincare energy on waging war on my pores anymore, I'm branching out into treatments and products that address other concerns. The DERMA-E also has a strong smell, but it's thick and easy to apply, plus I've noticed a smoothing effect when I use it (though no noticeable "firming" benefits...yet).

The best products for all-over dryness on Accutane

I did notice some overall dry skin beyond my face, too, but I'm already a bit of a lotion warrior, so it's been difficult to determine which of my too-many products are the ones helping me out. For instance, I use the Glossier Body Hero Dry-Touch Oil Mist ($30) and Daily Perfecting Lotion ($28) every night, but did notice that after I started the Accutane, it seemed to absorb quicker, like my skin was a little more desperate for it.

I did add two new products to my rotation to specifically address hydration concerns at different levels after starting the meds. First, I started using the Bath & Body Works Sensitive Skin Colloidal Oatmeal Body Butter ($20.95). This stuff is thick, so it takes a while to rub it in, but that's what I like about it. Its thickness literally creates a heavy layer on my skin, sealing in moisture. The thickness makes me feel like it's actually doing something. Interestingly, it also has the exact same smell as my medspa, which I mention not only because it plays weird memory-based mind tricks on me when I use it, but so I can tell you that you can get Botox and filler on Accutane, but you cannot get chemical peels. In general, always check with your derm and any other specialists before you have any treatment or invest in a heavy-duty product.

On my Bath & Body Works trip, I also found out about their moisturizing body wash line ($17.95). I do already use the Glossier Body Hero Daily Oil Wash ($28), but it feels thin and slippery and I'm not convinced it's as effective as its corresponding oil and lotion. The B&BW moisturizing body wash (which can be purchased in basically all of the brand's scents) is thicker, almost like a lotion that sudses up, and feels a little more useful in terms of actually delivering moisturizing benefits in-shower. I use it for shaving, since shaving dry skin is hard and I'm prone to bleeding a little when I try it, so the thickness comes in much handier.

Listen, any lotion is better than no lotion here. I have a vitamin E oil from a dollar store that is so cheap the cap keeps falling apart and that stuff works just fine for moisturizing, too. Consistency is more important than ingredients, fanciness, or method, so my top advice is to get as much lotion and oil as you can and stick it everywhere. Keep some in the bathroom, some in your bag, some by your bed, some by the kitchen sink, etc. Use it whenever you see it.

Other useful products for Accutane dryness

If you're worried about dryness or other side effects, bring your concerns up whenever you can. My dermatologist prescribed me a steroid cream when I told her I noticed little cuts were healing slower after starting the medicine and my optometrist gave me some extra-moisturizing eye drops that are safe for my contact lenses when I told her my eyes felt dry, too. Speaking up to the relevant experts about anything you're experiencing will yield some results.

Beyond that, I got a new humidifier to fully immerse myself in the moistest air possible. The inside of my nose feels super dry since starting the pills, so the humidifier has really helped me when it comes to waking up and not feeling like I'm breathing in razor blades. I got the Esemoil Cool Mist humidifier ($39.99) because I like that app connectivity and the fact that it changes colors.

And finally, I got a bottle of Hi-Lyte electrolyte supplement ($20.96) and put a few drops in my drinks in the hope this will hydrate me from the inside out. I really don't know if this one works, but it helps give me the feeling I'm doing something good for myself, even when I'm drinking something sugary and terrible, and that's the motivation I personally need to keep going.

So, in short, you'll likely be dry as a bone for a while when you start Accutane, but it's a great excuse to revitalize your collection of scents and potions. Just make sure you pick products that address your specific needs as they crop up.

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