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‘Gestures of error’: how fashion is embracing crinkled couture

30 May 2024 at 13:00

In this week’s newsletter: A generation terrified of wrinkles is embracing creases in their clothes, as the purposefully rumpled look is turning up everywhere from the Cannes red carpet to the high street

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The red carpet at the Cannes film festival is the pinnacle of glamour. Every inch of that floor-sweeping gown and each falling hair tendril has been picked over by stylists and “glam squads”. So when film director and Cannes jury president Greta Gerwig appeared on the red carpet last week in a dress that was wrinkled, you would be forgiven for thinking that someone was about to be fired.

But Gerwig’s hot-pink Balenciaga couture gown wasn’t accidentally creased, a pesky side-effect of a car ride from hotel to Croissette. It was intentional – from asymmetric shoulder right down to the hemline, it was corrugated like a hot tin roof.

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© Photograph: Tom Nicholson/REX/Shutterstock

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© Photograph: Tom Nicholson/REX/Shutterstock

Spray-painting Kate Moss and Jude Law up a lamp post: Rankin in retrospect – in pictures

27 May 2024 at 02:00

Charting the photographer’s pioneering work at Dazed & Confused magazine, a new exhibition captures a rebellious – and pre-Photoshop – era in fashion photography

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© Photograph: Rankin

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© Photograph: Rankin

‘Deeply concerning’: Vampire’s Wife closure shows battle faced by independent British fashion brands

27 May 2024 at 01:00

Collapse of Matchesfashion platform is major factor in implosion across the supply chain, say industry insiders

By midday last Friday, a large queue had formed in Mayfair, London, as shoppers lined up for one last shot at getting their hands on one of the Vampire’s Wife’s signature and highly coveted Falconetti dresses, once called “the dress of the decade” by Vogue.

Earlier in the week, the London-based brand, founded in 2014 by the former model Susie Cave and whose designs were worn by everyone from Kate, Princess of Wales, to Kate Moss, announced it was shutting down, ending its tenure with a three-day “goodbye sale”.

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© Photograph: Martina Lang/The Guardian

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© Photograph: Martina Lang/The Guardian

On the Cannes red carpet, it’s film-makers’ turn to shine

24 May 2024 at 02:00

In this week’s newsletter: With few expectations or endorsement deals to suppress their style, the top directors at the film festival are breaking rules with chic, expressive outfits

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Unless you are on a digital detox, you have probably noticed that the Cannes film festival is taking place right now, with a battalion of celebrities descending on the Côte d’Azur. For 12 days in May, the festival turns the resort town into a catwalk. From the not-so-subtle arrivals at Nice airport (see English actor Joe Alwyn, fresh off the plane in a full new-season Bottega Veneta look, including leather trousers and a gargantuan £4,000 bag) to the five or so glamorous premieres a day, it has become one of the biggest events in fashion. Be it for the parties or the “off-duty” daytime looks, this is the time for Hollywood stars and their stylists to bring their A-game.

But it’s not just big-screen fixtures stepping into the spotlight. This year it’s the directors, more usually found behind the camera, who have become the somewhat unexpected stars of the Croisette.

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© Photograph: Clodagh Kilcoyne/Reuters

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© Photograph: Clodagh Kilcoyne/Reuters

Girls’ night: the teenage ritual of preparing to go out – in pictures

18 May 2024 at 02:00

For her debut book, the Irish photographer Eimear Lynch travelled around Ireland to photograph groups of girls immersed in the, often lengthy, ritual of dressing up and applying their makeup together

Girls’ Night is available now from IDEA

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© Photograph: Eimear Lynch

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© Photograph: Eimear Lynch

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