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Today — 18 June 2024Main stream

The Woman Who Created the Modern Cookbook

18 June 2024 at 07:02
"When Ms. Jones began her career in publishing in the 1950s, cookbooks and food writing in general weren't taken seriously, often lumped in with technical manuals and textbooks. Their editing focused on the recipe instructions, without thought to point of view, cultural context or the beauty of language." [Archive]
Yesterday — 17 June 2024Main stream

You Can 'Wellington' Way More Than Beef

17 June 2024 at 12:30

Beef Wellington is a dish of opulence—not the average thing for the likes of me to order off of a menu—if I wanted to eat it, I’d have to try making it. So I did. And while beef Wellington is a scrumptious and impressive centerpiece, frankly, it's murder on my wallet. That's because the tenderloin that runs through the center carries a hefty price tag. When you think about it, what makes the dish great is as much the treatment of the tenderloin, as it is the meat itself. In that spirit, I’d like to encourage you to Wellington anything you damn well please. 

What is beef Wellington?

The classic beef Wellington uses about a two-pound center cut of beef tenderloin—a cut prized for its mild beef flavor and supreme tenderness. That piece will run you $60 to over $100 depending on where you buy it and the treatment and processing of the meat. That prime cut of meat is seared and given the full welly treatment: It’s wrapped in a savory mushroom duxelles followed by a thin layer of prosciutto, and finally sealed into a sheet of buttery puff pastry. It’s baked until gloriously crisp and browned. 

When you slice into it, you’re rewarded with many concentric layers of rich, umami-laden treats. It’s a gorgeous presentation in which every component plays a role in this gratifying experience. Meaning, truly, you can swap out the protein for another one and get similar (if not greater) satisfaction. 

Salmon Wellington. Chicken thigh Wellington. Turkey meatloaf Wellington. Hard-boiled egg Wellington. Each one of those would be showstoppers at your dinner party and at a fraction of the price of the traditional. All you have to do is prepare that protein exactly how you would normally cook it, or depending on the protein and your preference, take it off the heat a bit early because it’ll continue to bake in the oven later. 

How to give any protein the Wellington treatment

I decided to make a meatloaf Wellington the other day, and it was a stunner. I often impress myself so my praise is expected, but my partner devoured his and told me he’d be happy ordering that at any chop house. All things considered, it certainly rivaled the classic. Meatloaf is cheaper to make, the seasoning penetrates throughout the protein, the pastry bakes crisper because less juice is released, and overall it’s more approachable. I’d say on average more folks slap together meatloaf than sear up a chateaubriand on a regular basis. Not only does that make it less stressful to assemble this dish with a protein you’re comfortable with, but if you mess it up, at least you didn’t overcook a $70 roast.

1. Cook your protein

Whatever it is you’re using, cook it to about 80% to 90% doneness. This will build some color, develop flavor, and retain some of the protein’s natural juices while allowing it to be firm enough to handle. Let it cool to room temperature. 

2. Make the duxelles

Duxelles is the French term for a rough chopped mushroom paste. Mushrooms lose a lot of moisture and reduce down to about half their bulk, so use 10 to 16 ounces of mushrooms. Chop them with a knife first to about quarter-inch bits, then use a food processor to bring them down to a mince. Sauté them in butter with a minced shallot and some fresh herbs, like thyme, until most of the moisture is gone; this takes about 15 minutes of stirring until the mushrooms are almost sticking to the bottom of the pan. There should be no mushroom juice pooling up in the pan when you’re done. Set it aside to cool.

Puff pastry on a cutting board.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

3. Shape the Wellington

When you’re ready to shape the massive roast, unwrap the thawed puff pastry on a lightly floured surface. Use a rolling pin to flatten out the pastry and make it a bit bigger. Lay a piece of plastic wrap over the pastry and slightly shingle prosciutto in a rectangle slightly smaller than the pastry. Spread the cooled duxelles onto the prosciutto to make a thin but complete layer.

Spreading duxelles on a sheet of prosciutto
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

Using a pastry brush, spread a thin layer of dijon mustard all over the protein. This tastes great but also helps the bits of mushroom adhere to the meat. Place the protein along the long side of the prosciutto and duxelles plank. If you’re using several small hunks of chicken or eggs, just line them up. Then use the plastic wrap to help you start rolling the prosciutto up and over the protein until it meets the other side. Use the plastic wrap to move the meat off to the side.

A meatloaf Wellington sliced to reveal the center.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

4. Bake the Wellington

Egg wash the puff pastry. Place the prosciutto tube onto the same side of the puff pastry and roll it up so the puff pastry meets the other side. Let it rest seam-side down. Pinch the edges shut securely. Place the Wellington on a parchment-lined baking sheet and egg-wash the outside. If you want to be fancy, use the back of a knife’s blade to make score marks in the puff pastry. Bake it at 425°F for about 25 to 35 minutes, or until the pastry is well-browned and risen. 

Considering the Wellington as more of a treatment rather than a specific dish opens the door to using it as a delightful way to rework leftovers too. Maybe you have two or three slices of meatloaf leftover from the weekend—just line up those slices on the duxelles and proceed as usual. Leftover pork roast makes an easy substitute, and I wouldn’t sneeze at a leftover roasted sweet potato Wellington either.

I set up in the kitchen, as I will every day going forward

17 June 2024 at 08:31
Rebekah Peppler on Julia Child and cooking in the south of France: "The kitchen remains as one imagines it did when Julia Child built it. Tart rings, copper pots, measuring spoons, and whisks line the four walls, with outlines marking a designated spot for every single item. Market baskets pile high in a corner; the screened door bangs shut in a way that feels like many have entered through it. And many have."

Julia previously, previously, previously, and so on.
Before yesterdayMain stream

How to Make Your Own Girl Scout Cookie-Style Caramel deLites

14 June 2024 at 15:30

I somehow missed Girl Scout Cookie season this year. I usually keep an eye out for the colorful boxes on tables outside supermarkets, but before I knew it, April was gone and so were the cookies. So I’m dedicating some time to Girl Scout Cookies, and how to impersonate them, until next year. You could probably buy a box of GSCs from Ebay or Mercari for a premium price, or you could dust off your rolling pins instead and make knock-offs with me for a lot cheaper.

Today, we're going to turn our attention to Caramel deLites, which are some of my favorites from the Girl Scout Cookie lineup. They feature a plain, crunchy cookie that’s draped in a caramel and coconut mixture, and dressed in a bit of chocolate. You might know them as Samoas. (They’re the same type of cookie, just produced by different bakeries.)

As is the case with most knock-off recipes of mass produced cookies, the homemade ones are usually more flavorful and bulkier. Despite my best efforts to make a more convincing copycat with less flavor and a more diminutive shape, the recipe I settled on is more buttery, coconut-y, and larger than the celebrity version. I even did a test batch with vegetable shortening like the ingredient list from ABC Bakers suggests, but I didn’t like them as much as I liked the butter-based recipe I made later. However, if you're looking to cut down on the butter notes (they are strong) you can try substituting half of the butter fat for shortening.

I decided to impersonate Caramel deLites with a modified shortbread dough. From what I remember, the cookie is plain, crumbly, but firm, so a simple dough sounded like a reasonable match. As much as I wanted the cookie to be closer to the ABC Bakers cookie, few people (including myself) will make an overly complicated recipe. These cookies are fantastic, but understand that they won’t give you the same straight-from-the-package flavor. Instead you’ll be met with aromas of browned butter, toasted coconut, and a whiff of dulce de leche. I know. How disappointing. 

How to make knock-off Caramel deLites (or Samoas)

1. Make the base cookie dough

Mix room temperature butter, sugar, vanilla extract, flour, salt, and baking powder together in a mixing bowl. The dough should ball up together and be stiff but pliable. Press it into a disc and leave it in the bowl. Let it rest in the fridge for about 10 minutes.

Coconut topping in a bowl.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

2. Make the topping

While the dough rests, make the topping. Once again, taking guidance from the ABC Baker’s ingredients, I used sweetened condensed milk and unsweetened shredded coconut to make the chewy topping. I used Let’s Do Organic brand because the pieces are smaller than something like Baker’s. Mix the sweetened condensed milk with the coconut shreds to make a thick goo. 

A spatula spreading topping onto a cookie dough sheet.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

3. Shape the cookies

Roll out the cookie dough on a lightly floured surface until it’s about a quarter-inch thick. Scoop the coconut goo onto the cookie dough and spread it out across the surface. Now you have a two layer cookie sheet. Using a cookie cutter (I used a fluted two-inch cutter), cut through both layers. Place the cookies on a parchment-lined cookie sheet. Use a small circular cookie cutter (or a piping tip, like I did) to cut out the center hole. Put the cookies in the freezer for about 15 minutes while you preheat the oven. 

A metal piping tip cutting a small hole out of cookies on a sheet tray.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

4. Bake ‘em

Bake the cookies straight out of the freezer for eight to 10 minutes. Keep an eye on them in the last two minutes as they’ll be pale one second and brown in a flash. Cool them on a wire cooling rack while you make the chocolate glaze. 

5. Decorate with a chocolate stripes

I went all-in and swiped chocolate on the bottoms as well as striping the tops, but if you don’t have the patience for both, I completely understand. Just do the stripes for the classic Samoa cookie look. 

Otherwise, flip all of the cookies over and have a new piece of parchment on a dish or cutting board. I used this chocolate glaze from food.com and it worked well. Mix the oil, cocoa powder, powdered sugar, and hot water together with a whisk. Working quickly, swipe chocolate onto the bottoms of all of the cookies with a rubber spatula, pastry brush, or small offset spatula. Keep the layer thin to prevent puddling. Put them chocolate-side down on the parchment. Using a spoon or a small pastry bag if you have it, drizzle the remaining chocolate topping over the cookies in a stripe pattern. (If your chocolate begins to thicken and harden, just pop it in the microwave for about 10 or 15 seconds to liquify it again.) Cool the cookies at room temperature for 20 minutes, or in the fridge for five.

These knock-off cookies become more “convincing” if they cool completely, but their buttery flavor is more enjoyable when they’re freshly finished. It’s up to you. If you have the patience, give them plenty of time to cool. If not, you’ll still be a winner in the end.

Copycat Samoa or Caramel deLite Cookie Recipe

Ingredients:

For the cookie dough:

  • ¼ cup sugar

  • ½ cup butter, room temperature

  • 1 cup + 2 tablespoons flour

  • ¼ teaspoon salt

  • ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract

For the coconut topping:

  • ¾  cup + 2 tablespoons unsweetened shredded coconut

  • ½  cup sweetened condensed milk

For the chocolate drizzle:

  • 2 tablespoons cocoa powder

  • 2 tablespoons neutral oil

  • 1 cup powdered sugar

  • 2 tablespoons hot water

1. Mix room temperature butter, sugar, vanilla extract, flour, and salt, and baking powder together in a mixing bowl. Press it into a disc and pop it in the fridge for 10 minutes.

2. While the dough rests, mix the sweetened condensed milk and shredded coconut in a small bowl to make a thick goo. 

3. Roll out the cookie dough on a lightly floured surface to a quarter-inch thickness. Spread the coconut goo onto the cookie dough to make a double layer. Using a round cookie cutter, cut through both layers. Place the cookies on a parchment-lined cookie sheet. Use a smaller circular cookie cutter, cut out the center hole. Put the cookies in the freezer for about 15 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 375 F. After the cookies have chilled, bake the cookies straight out of the freezer for 8-10 minutes, or until lightly browned. Cool them on a wire cooling rack while you make the chocolate glaze. 

5. Mix the oil, cocoa powder, powdered sugar, and hot water together with a whisk. Working quickly, swipe chocolate onto the bottoms of all of the cookies. Put them chocolate-side down on a piece of parchment. Use a spoon or a small pastry bag to drizzle the remaining chocolate topping over the cookies in a stripe pattern. Cool the cookies completely. Peel them off the parchment and enjoy.

Why You Should Consider a Gas Grill (and Three to Check Out)

14 June 2024 at 09:30

The only type of grill I ever saw growing up was one fueled by propane gas—they were at both of my parents’ houses, and at all of my friends’ homes. That’s not to say that charcoal grills aren’t a popular and high-quality option (read here to see if charcoal is right for you), but something about the large size and ease of using a gas grill feels very “family nest” to me. If you’re weighing the options for your next summer cookout, consider a gas grill. 


Gas grills in this post:


Is a gas grill right for you?

Gas grills can be great long-term outdoor fixtures that can anchor the space of a patio or backyard. They used to be primarily large boxy grills, but now they come in a wide variety of sizes (and so do the gas tanks)—those big enough to cook a 20-person feast, down to more portable folding propane grills for camping. Regardless of the size you choose or whether you want folding side tables or not, gas grills boast a number of pros compared to other grill types.

  • Easy to use. Unlike a charcoal grill which can take some practice and accessories to properly get going, modern gas grills start with a twist of a knob and a click of a button.

  • Cleaner fuel. If the plumes of smoke that come along with other grills bother you, it might be a good idea to go gas. Gas burns cleaner than charcoal—which is a trade-off in regard to flavor—but you won’t have to worry about smoking out your neighbors even with the occasional burger-juice flare up. If you have natural gas set up at your home, many grills can hook up to that line too (which is great if you hate refilling your propane tank).

  • Temperature control. Starting up the grill isn’t the only thing that’s done with a dial; you get precise temperature control with a gas grill. Gone are the days of prodding charcoal over to one side or wondering if your heat is too high.

  • Peace of mind. While you can use a charcoal grill safely, there is a degree of peace of mind that comes with a grill that doesn’t involve stoking flames and nursing embers. Gas grills can live in a spot next to the house, so you don’t have to observe a safe distance from buildings, and you don’t have to wait for any embers to die out completely. When you turn it off, it’s off.

For a portable option, consider the Coleman RoadTrip Standing Propane Gas Grill

If you frequently enjoy a weekend camping trip with friends or family the Coleman RoadTrip is something to consider. It folds flat-ish, has sturdy wheels and three adjustable burners. It operates on one-pound gas canisters which means you don’t have to take up precious trunk space with a 20-pound propane tank. 

For a natural gas grill, check out the Weber Spirit 3-burner Gas Grill

You can’t always convert propane gas grills to natural gas, so if you’re set on hooking it up to your house's natural gas line then the Weber Spirit is worth checking out. It has a built-in thermometer to help you monitor the temperature while the lid is closed, and it even comes with a 10-foot natural gas hose. With 529 square inches of cooking surface, you’ve got a decent sized main grilling area with an additional warming rack. 

If you love bells and whistles, take a gander at the Weber Summit Gas Grill

This grill is monumental, and about as much of a patio fixture as you can get. While it comes with a hefty price tag, this is the type of unit that should last you five to 12 years or longer depending on how you maintain it. 

This grill has four main burners, a smoker option, a side burner for pots or pans, and a rotisserie feature. Plus it has that classic backyard, gas-fueled grill look. The Weber Summit is set up for either propane or natural gas.

Safety first

It may not be the glamorous part of grilling, but safety is crucial to making sure your summer doesn’t go up in flames. While you don’t have charcoal embers kicking around, gas is your invisible opponent. 

Gas safety involves being mindful of gas leaks, and preventing gas build up. If you smell gas and there’s no reason for that (like the grill is off), don’t light anything nearby, make sure all gas valves are closed, clear the area, and call emergency services to help you find out if you have a gas leak.

Always open the lid of the grill before you click on the gas. This will prevent a gas pocket building under the hood before you ignite it, and gives you a chance to take a look around. Clean the grates while you're in there. It’s also a good idea to keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case.

These Are the Best Cheeses for a Grilled Cheese Sandwich

13 June 2024 at 11:00

The bread component of any sandwich is important but, where grilled cheese is concerned, you have to prioritize the namesake ingredient. Most recipes claim to have the best, most perfect combination of fats and dairy for the ultimate grilled cheese, but what if you’re more of a stretchy-cheese girl? Or maybe a fully melted, liquid cheese puddle is more your vibe. The point of any comfort food is to make yourself happy. Instead of ranking cheeses according my personal preferences, here’s a quick guide to the best cheese for a grilled cheese sandwich for the most important person in the room. (I’m talking about you.)

Assorted cheeses piled up on a countertop.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

The best cheese for a grilled cheese

Cheese is composed of protein, fat, water, and acid. (Read more about cheese elements here.) Depending on the ratio of those four pillars, you’ll get different reactions when heat is applied. This might mean that you use all of one type of cheese, or you can try pairing cheeses to get different results.

The best cheese for stretchy sandwiches

If a quality cheese-pull is where the party’s at, then that stretchy protein percentage is important.

For major elasticity, try:

  • Mozzarella

  • Gouda

  • Havarti

  • Gruyère

Lean on younger cheeses, as those aged for over a year lack the moisture to melt and stretch quite as well as their younger counterparts.

The best cheese for gooey sandwiches

Not everyone wants a never-ending cheese pull. Sometimes less stretching and more of a soft, melting cheese is in order. The fat content will play a starring role in this case, allowing the protein clusters to move farther away from each other.

For a cheese that melts so smoothly you could weep, try:

  • Taleggio

  • Muenster (by popular demand, and I agree.)

  • Cheddar

  • Raclette

  • Fontina

  • American (It’s the cheese we all hate to love, but you have to admit, the stuff can melt.)

The best “cheese” for liquid cheese magma

There is a stage past gooey. A place not many choose to go, but if you dare, you could make a grilled cheese that practically erupts with melted dairy. For a nearly liquid cheese sandwich, lean on those with a higher fat and water content. I recommend using very soft cheeses in addition to, well, let’s call them “cheese-type snacks.”

  • Velveeta

  • Tostitos Salsa Con Queso

  • Cheez Whiz

Apply a little heat and they’ll reward you with yellow liquid sin. If you can’t bear to put a cheese-type snack on your sandwich bread, try:

  • Triple cream brie without the rind

  • Gournay cheese (like Boursin)

  • Creamy goat cheese

  • Good ol’ cream cheese.

Don’t fret, if you want a little bit of everything in your dream-date grilled cheese you should explore some combinations. If you enjoy a little stretch with your melt, layer in some gruyere with your fontina. Add in a secret smear of Cheez Whiz (we all know Philadelphia’s on to something with those cheesesteaks). Be brave. The grilled cheese of your dreams awaits.

Here's my current favorite cheese combination for a slow-running, gooey grilled cheese with the tiniest bit of stretch and a mild cheesy flavor.

Grilled cheese cut in half on a cutting board.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

Best Grilled Cheese Sandwich Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 2 slices sturdy bread (I cut a grainy ciabatta on a severe bias)

  • 1 tablespoon salted butter

  • 1 slice American cheese

  • 1 ounce havarti

  • ½ ounce muenster

1. Butter one side of each slice of bread. Place one slice, butter-side down, in a frying pan. Don't turn on the heat yet.

2. Layer in the cheeses. If you can't find sliced havardi or muenster, just cut off a hunk and dot the bread with cheese. They're both semi-soft so I like to give them a smash with my fingers to flatten them out.

3. Top the sandwich with the other slice of bread, butter-side up. Turn on the heat to medium-low and put a lid on the pan. The steam and ambient heat will help melt the cheeses thoroughly.

4. Flip the sandwich after a few minutes to brown the other side. There's no need to put the lid on again. Cool briefly on a wire rack before chowing.

This Decadent Sandwich Is a Cross Between Monte Cristo and a Croque Monsieur

13 June 2024 at 08:00

There are many lovely carbs I enjoy using as sandwich bread—including pancakes and french toast—but oddly, I rarely use croissants. I prefer to eat those fresh and they’re far too flaky to hold a hearty sandwich together (and I only eat hearty sandwiches). However, day-old croissants, or store-bought packaged croissants are a different story. The crisp flakes have humidified, and instead you have a pocketed buttery bread with a tough eggy skin; the perfect structure for a decadent croque monsieur. 

If you haven’t met a croque monsieur before, it’s an elevated ham and cheese sandwich of French origin. It’s usually composed of two crusty sourdough slices, Gruyère cheese, ham, and a smear each of dijon and béchamel sauce. The whole sandwich is toasted until crisp, melty, and golden brown in a buttery pan. Add an egg on top and now you have a croque madame. I told you it was elevated.

Croissants aren’t crusty in the sense that sourdough loaves are crusty, but personally, that’s part of the allure. Sometimes I don’t want eating to be hard work, and that half-inch thick crust is a proper chewing challenge. Aged croissants are buttery, with flaky pockets, and for some sick, deranged reason, I am under the impression that croque monsieurs should be made like French toast. Meaning those airy pockets get filled with creamy custard. Inexplicably, I think I married it with a Monte Cristo or mozzarella in carrozza (which can and should be made in your air fryer), but you know what, this quick soak gives stale croissants new life. That said, if you want to skip the custard bath, you totally can.

How to make a Croissant Monsieur

1. Soak your croissant in custard

Whisk a bit of cream with an egg and salt. Split the croissant in half equatorially and dunk it in the custard to soak up the mixture. Fry the halves in a buttered frying pan just until all sides are lightly browned. Take the pieces out and let them cool briefly on a wire rack. 

Croissant halves soaking in custard.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

As I mentioned, this step is optional since it is my perverted croque-cristo-carrozza fantasy, but I highly suggest it. The custard creates a soft, spongy texture with the bread that I adore. Skip to step two if you’re not interested or you just want to save time. The sandwich will be crisper without the custard.

2. Make the béchamel sauce

Whipping up a small amount of béchamel sauce is easier than it sounds. Heat a quarter cup of milk in the microwave until steaming. Whisk a pat of butter and a tablespoon of all-purpose flour in a small pot until the butter is melted and the mixture has been bubbling for about a minute. While whisking continuously, slowly pour in the warm milk. Turn off the heat and add a pinch of salt and nutmeg. 

Sandwich being built with ham and cheese.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

3. Build the sandwich

Spread some of the béchamel sauce onto each side of the croissant. Add shredded or thinly sliced Gruyère or swiss cheese on top of the creamy sauce, then add one or two slices of ham. Spread some dijon on the ham and close up the sandwich.

4. Fry it 

In the same buttery pan, add a tad more butter and place the sandwich inside. I topped my sandwich with more cheese, but if you plan to flip it then don’t. Put a lid on top and heat the sandwich over medium-low to heat the sandwich through and melt the cheese. After three to five minutes, flip the sandwich to toast the other side. If you’re not flipping it, take it out once the cheese has melted.

Croissant sandwich cut in half to reveal the layers.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

This croissant monsieur is a Level 10 for decadence. The béchamel sauce nestled next to the cheese creates a creamy, stretchy sensation and the outer croissant that was fried in butter is tender but still provides a welcome crisp texture. This sandwich is best enjoyed right away.

Croissant Croque Monsieur Recipe

For the béchamel sauce

  • 1 tablespoon butter

  • 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

  • ¼ cup milk, warm

  • Pinch salt

  • Pinch ground nutmeg

For the sandwich

  • 1 egg

  • ½ cup cream

  • ½ teaspoon salt 

  • 2 croissants (day-old or packaged are best), split

  • 1 teaspoon of butter

  • ½ cup shredded or shaved Gruyère cheese (or any Swiss cheese)

  • 2 slices of ham

  • Dijon mustard, to taste

1. Make the bèchamel sauce by adding the butter and flour to a small pot over medium heat. Whisk until the mixture bubbles for about a minute, then slowly whisk in the milk until a thick sauce develops. Mix in the salt and nutmeg. Set aside.

2. Melt the teaspoon of butter in a frying pan over medium-low heat. Whisk the egg, cream, and salt in a bowl. Dunk the croissant halves into the custard and add them to the frying pan. Fry them until all sides have lightly browned. Remove the croissants from the pan to a wire rack.

3. Spread the béchamel sauce onto the croissant halves, add the cheese, ham, and a bit of dijon mustard. Close the two sandwiches and put them back in the frying pan. Top them with a little extra cheese if you like and put a lid on the pan. Fry them over medium-low heat until the bottoms are toasty and the cheese in the center is melted. Enjoy immediately.

The Case for Buying a Charcoal Grill (and Three to Consider)

12 June 2024 at 13:30

Few outdoor accessories are more important than the grill you choose for you summertime cookouts. It was already time to retire your old grill when that rust hole appeared and a family of mice moved in three years ago, so don’t put it off any longer.

If you’ve already weighed the benefits of an electric grill but you haven’t been able to shake the siren’s call of the classic charcoal grill, you’re in the right place. Considering this my argument for why charcoal still can be a great choice, and how to choose a good grill.


The charcoal grills in this post:


Charcoal gives food that classic summertime flavor you associate with the activity of grilling. Any morsel cooked over charcoal’s radiant heat is blessed with a smoky flavor unmatched by any other outdoor cooking device (barring a smoker, but that’s a different world altogether). With the right mindset, it also can be a lot of fun, from the moment you pack the chimney to when you close down the vents—and those glowing embers will always inspire s’mores.

I feel like a big time grill master whenever I cook with charcoal, probably because it takes a bit of work and know-how to successfully get one going versus a propane gas grill that lights with a click, or an electric grill that activates with a flip of the switch. But it's also something a beginner can handle. (They say that each time you get those charcoal briquettes glowing, your ego grows three sizes.)

Is a charcoal grill right for you?

When considering which type of grill to buy, think about your priorities. Do you need it to be portable? What size do you think is best? Do you just want something that lights the first time, or are you okay with some trial and error? Consider charcoal's advantages: 

  • Great flavor. This is my number one concern when grilling (or when cooking, really), and the charcoal grill delivers. If you want that flame-kissed flavor, then the question isn’t if you should buy a charcoal grill, it’s which charcoal grill. 

  • High heat. Charcoal cooks your food with powerful radiant heat from the mound of briquettes underneath the food. While gas burns cleaner, it just doesn’t burn as hot as charcoal. If strong sears are important to you, go with charcoal.

  • Portable. You’re probably not taking a propane tank or an electric plugin grill to the park or to the beach. Charcoal grills can come in large sizes, or as tiny foldable units. Throw a bag of charcoal in the back seat and you can grill up some burgers anywhere you are legally allowed.

Safety first

If you’re looking for tips on charcoal grilling, read about how to keep it hot, and these tricks for starting out. As always, use your charcoal grill safely, and never burn charcoal indoors (including in a tent). Burning charcoal produces carbon monoxide (CO) and doing it in an enclosed space can lead to CO poisoning. Keep it in the open air—it’s more fun to cook out there anyway. 

Also: Clean the damn thing, including the grates, with every use to remove fat deposits which can cause flare-ups, and just because you should.

Give your grill some space. Even if you don’t live in NYC, I'm referencing the city's guidelines, because it doesn’t get much more crammed full of people and buildings than here. NYC.gov recommends a clearance of 10 feet or more when using charcoal grills near buildings and structures. (Beyond that, keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case.)

Now, on to my recommendations.

For a portable option, consider the Weber Smokey Joe Premium

This wee tabletop Weber grill gives you a 14-inch cooking surface, which is small enough to carry but big enough to fit five average-sized burgers all at once. This is an option for the outdoorsy chef on the go that envisions many tailgating, camping, or park grilling sessions in their future. Although the art of charcoal grilling is the same whether small or large, this petite Weber’s small size makes it approachable if you’re a beginner just starting out.

It you want a kamado charcoal grill, check out Kamado Joe’s 

Do I know why the name “Joe” seems to inspire so many charcoal grills? Nope. But what I am sure of is that Japanese-style kamado grills are an excellent option for anyone looking for their new backyard centerpiece. While on the pricier side among charcoal-fueled options, this heavy duty grill is constructed of thick ceramic with cast iron parts, so it provides even heating, consistent temperatures, and surprisingly strong heat retention. It is not, however, light—you won’t be tossing this one in the back seat, it’s a good option for folks who plan on grilling at home. 

The Weber Original Kettle is a classic for a reason

Weber has been one of the more recognizable names in charcoal grills since the 1960s, perhaps because, although simple, its standard design works so well. This original kettle reflects the same silhouette as the first Webers, with some helpful improvements like hinged grill grates to move the charcoal underneath and an easily removable ash bucket. This grill is great as a flexible option—it’s more lightweight than the kamado grill and has wheels, so it’s semi-portable. Plus the price range is more affordable while still accounting for higher quality materials, so it should last you a few years until you want to change things up again. 

The SPAM Ramen Burger Was Everything I Could Hope For

12 June 2024 at 08:00

Maybe you already know about the SPAM ramen burger, but apparently I had been living in the dark ages. For the uninitiated, it’s everything you could hope for—crispy, chewy, umami-laced, and bursting with flavor. For an unconventional mid-week meal, make your family (or yourself) some SPAM ramen burgers.

Although I wish I had been the creator of this porky burger, I’m happy enough to be a humble follower. The idea is to make a couple ramen burger “buns” and fill it with a fried piece of SPAM along with any toppings you like. The recipe I used comes directly from the SPAM-source, and the patty is topped with kimchi. I took one bite and was truly impressed. The ramen makes a surprisingly sturdy bun, and the kimchi’s fermented snap complements the SPAM’s salty fried pork flavor.

How to make SPAM ramen burgers

The ramen burger "buns" have a couple steps, but the SPAM part takes but a moment.

1. Cook the noodles

You’ll start by cooking the ramen noodles as usual. Add a cup of water to a small pot along with the seasoning packet and the dry noodles. The water will be discarded so you don’t have to make it soupy. 

Two bowls with ramen noodles inside.
Left: Shaping the patty with no plastic, Right: Shaping the patty with plastic assistance. Both are fine. Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

2. Shape the patties

Once the noodles are soft, drain out the broth and dump the noodles into a bowl. Let them cool for about five minutes. Add an egg (this will help bind the noodles later) and stir it all around to coat the noodles evenly. Line two regular bowls with plastic wrap, or you could just lightly oil the bowls. Divide the noodles between two regular bowls. Use the plastic wrap’s overhang to wrap the noodles and compress them slightly into a patty. Though the recipe says to use a weight, you don’t need to: Just smooth the noodles down with a rubber spatula and put the bowls into the fridge. The recipe also instructs to wait two hours, but I only waited 45 minutes and it worked out well. 

A ramen noodle patty in a frying pan.
The egg binds the noodles, allowing for a tender interior and crispy browned exterior. Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

3. Fry the “buns”

Once the noodles feel firm, remove the patties by lifting out the plastic wrap. If you didn’t use plastic wrap, use a spatula to carefully loosen the sides and scoop or flip them out. Fry the ramen patties in a buttered frying pan until both sides are crisp and browned. Set them on a plate.

4. Fry the SPAM

Pan-fry a slice of SPAM in the same frying pan. Place the meat slab on one of the buns and add your toppings of choice. The recipe on the SPAM website suggests topping it with kimchi, which I did and I highly suggest it, but you can go anywhere with this burger. Try a classic American-style burger with American cheese, tomatoes, and lettuce. Keep it simple with mayo and pickles, or lean into the umami with mushrooms and caramelized onions.

SPAM Ramen Burger Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 1 packet instant ramen noodles

  • 1 egg

  • Butter for coating the pan

  • 1 slice of SPAM

  • Kimchi or other Assorted toppings

1. Cook the ramen according to the package directions. Drain out the excess broth and pour the noodles into a medium mixing bowl. Let them cool for five minutes. Add the egg and mix the noodles to coat them. 

2. Oil two soup bowls lightly, or line them with plastic wrap. Divide the eggy noodles between the two bowls. Press and smooth the noodles with a rubber spatula to form the patties. Put the bowls in the fridge to firm up for an hour. 

3. Once the patties feel firm enough to hold their shape, add enough butter to a small frying pan to coat the bottom. Over medium-low heat, fry the ramen patties until the sides are crisp and lightly browned. Place them on a plate.

4. Fry the plank of SPAM in the same frying pan to brown it. Top one “bun” with the spam slice. Add burger toppings and top it all with the other ramen patty. Enjoy immediately. 

Make the Mets' Rainbow Cookie Egg Roll at Home

7 June 2024 at 09:30

When I first became aware of fried Oreos, I remember being skeptical at first. Then I had one on the boardwalk somewhere in Jersey and marveled at the genius of its simplicity. Well, there’s a new generation of fried cookie on the scene and while it’s found a home at Mets Stadium for the moment, I think the idea will be rolling onto boardwalks and into state fairs soon enough. It’s the rainbow cookie egg roll, and requiring just a few ingredients and no particular skills, pretty much anyone can whip up this vibrant dessert at home.

Similarly to how a fried Oreo offers a soft, cake-like center enrobed in a fried shell, the rainbow cookie egg roll boasts this contrast in textures—to a pleasant exaggeration. The rainbow cookie center is a triple-decker cake-y treat, and it’s a winner all on its own. Wrap it up in an egg roll shell and you’ve got a crunchy, blistered bit of pastry that at once tempers the sweetness but also allows you to eat three rainbow cookies in one go. It’s fantastic. And I was going to eat at least three cookies anyway.

Long Island-based restaurant Wok n’ Roll is responsible for providing this tasty treat to Citi Field. While it’s easy to make, watch out for this egg roll rookie mistake: overfilling. Wok n’ Roll’s chef Chris Huang recommends that you “just don’t put too many cookies inside the wrapper before you roll it up, otherwise they’ll tear.” So despite what you might want, keep the cookies to a reasonable amount. You can always have two egg rolls. 

How to make a rainbow cookie egg roll

While Wok n’ Roll adds a squeeze of chocolate syrup and a dollop of raspberry jam, I didn’t look before leaping and so I filled the egg roll wrappers with straight-up packaged rainbow cookies. To be honest, I was not in need of more sauce because the rainbow cookies are already striped with jam and covered in a chocolatey coating. They have plenty of that classic rainbow cookie flavor, and because I didn’t add anything liquid, I had absolutely no issues with anything oozing out in the hot oil. 

1. Prep the edges

The average packaged egg roll wrappers come dusted with cornstarch, so moistening the perimeter edge with water is enough to create an effective seal. However, if you’re at all worried about it unfurling in the hot oil, you can use egg white instead. Whichever liquid you choose, just use a pastry brush or your fingertips to wipe a bit of it along each edge.

Rainbow cookies lined up on an egg roll sheet.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

2. Fill the egg roll

If you opt to add a bit of raspberry jam and chocolate syrup to your egg roll, now is the time to do it. Just add a swipe—remember, we’re trying to prevent any explosions in the oil. With or without the added condiments, add the cookies close together, in a line, from one corner to the opposite corner. I only needed three cookies, but depending on the size of yours, you might need more or fewer.

I got my cookies from a package, Cake Bites brand to be exact, and I recommend using that one or a similarly packaged item. You do not want to use your own scratch-made rainbow cookies, or expensive ones from the fine bakery uptown for this recipe. Those should be relished on their own, and a high-quality chocolate coating will definitely swim out into the oil. 

3. Wrap the roll

Wrapping egg rolls is easy once you get the hang of it, but I can see how they can confuse some folks. Follow the pictures below, and you can read more about wrapping egg rolls here.

An egg roll in the process of being wrapped.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

Start by folding the two corners closest to the filling up and over it. Wrap the pastry snuggly, but don’t try to stretch it over the filling. It won’t happen, it’ll just tear.

An egg roll in the final stages of being wrapped.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

Next, take one of the remaining flaps and fold it up and over the filling.

A plate of rainbow cookie egg rolls before frying.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

Repeat this with the other flap, making sure the moistened edges make good contact wherever they land. 

4. Fry the egg rolls

In a deep pot filled with about one and a half to two inches of a neutral frying oil, fry the egg rolls at 375 F for about three minutes, or until browned. Use tongs or a metal spider to lift the rolls out of the oil and let the excess drain back into the pot for a few seconds. Move the rolls to a wire cooling rack, or one of these alternative ones. Allow them to cool for at least five minutes, and dust them with powdered sugar before serving. 

Rainbow Cookie Egg Roll Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 4 egg roll wrappers

  • 12 Italian rainbow cookies (I used Cake Bites)

  • Neutral oil for frying

  • Powdered sugar for garnish (optional)

1. Pour about 2 inches of the frying oil into a pot. Bring it up to 375 F and set up a cooling rack nearby.

2. Lay out the egg roll wrappers and wipe water (or egg whites) around all four edges of each wrapper. Line up three rainbow cookies in the center of each egg roll wrapper. Wrap each one securely.

3. Fry the egg rolls in the hot oil for about 3 minutes each, or until nicely browned. Cool them on the wire rack for at least 5 minutes. If you like, dust them with powdered sugar before serving. 

These Dutch Ovens Can Double As Impromptu Coolers

6 June 2024 at 08:30

At any given moment during the summer, the need for an impromptu cooler can and will arise. Yard parties, cookouts, and even a casual sit out on the patio create the need for a place to keep your beer or five onion French onion dip nice and chilly. The next time you need a quick cooler substitute, just reach for your Dutch oven.


Dutch ovens that can double as coolers:

Lodge Double Dutch Oven with lid handles

This dutch oven’s lid doubles as a skillet. Not only is that absolutely genius but you get two cooking vessels for an excellent price—and Lodge is a great maker of cast iron cookware. 

Cuisinart 7-quart Cast Iron Pot

For holding large salads or multiple containers, choose a pot with a deep cavity, or one that’s oval shaped. 

Le Creuset Signature Round Dutch Oven

Le Creuset is an investment. While I wouldn’t call them budget-friendly, their high quality construction means you won’t need to replace this pot as quickly as you would with cheaper brands.


How to use a Dutch oven as a cooler

I first saw this on America’s Test Kitchen’s Instagram feed, and while it’s not something you’d take to the beach with you, a chilled Dutch oven can really help you out in a pinch. First, chill the Dutch oven. This can be done by making an ice bath. Fill the vessel with cold water and about two cups of ice to it. Let the icy water chill the metal for about five minutes and dump out the water. One of the comments points out that you can save water and just chill the vessel in the fridge instead. If you have the time, I recommend that option because you can get the lid properly cold too, but it’ll probably take an hour to get there. If you’re in a time crunch, go with the ice bath method. 

Now you’ve effectively created a chilly chamber, or a large serving bowl that’ll stay colder for longer. Dutch ovens are prized for their heavy cast iron constitution which normally means they can hold onto heat and evenly cook your food. What they’re actually doing well is managing energy flow, and that applies to cold temperatures too. You can serve whole potato salads directly in the pot, protect containers of dip, or keep condiments, drinks, or deviled eggs chilled inside the pot with the lid on. 

You can go proper cooler and fill it halfway with ice and nestle drinks inside, or fall somewhere in the middle and buy a wire steaming rack to add a shelf to the inside. Put ice down underneath the wire shelf to keep the space cool and your food out of the melt. The pot will keep its cool for longer than other containers, like glass and plastic, but the exact timing depends on the size of the pot, the temperature of what goes inside, and how often you open it. 

The Cheeses You Can Freeze (and the Ones You Shouldn't)

5 June 2024 at 13:00

One of my favorite ways to diminish food waste in my kitchen is to make frequent use of the freezer. An incredible number of the foods you might accidentally let spoil on the counter or in the fridge can be easily preserved with this fantastic ice box. You probably know about extending the life of meats and breads in the freezer, but don’t forget the final member of the holy trinity: cheese. However, some freeze better than others. Here are the cheeses you can freeze and the ones that you’ll just have to eat faster.

Why freezing cheese works… sometimes.

Freezing dairy is a tricky business. More accurately, it’s the thawing that can be disappointing. But other than making your own cheese cave, the freezer is a viable option for extending the life of some cheese. Dairy products, like cheese, milk, sour cream, or yogurt, are emulsions of fat, water, protein, and acid. Depending on the ratio of water to the other elements, the dairy will be liquid like milk, semi-solid like yogurt, semi-firm like cheddar, or firm like parmesan. 

Freezing will change the composition of anything with water in it. As you likely know, water expands when it freezes, which means if there are tiny water droplets dispersed in a dairy emulsion, they’ll push the other elements out of the way as they expand and freeze. When the item thaws, the water changes back into liquid, but the proteins and fats have been pushed into a new space and separated from the water, leaving behind a bigger, use-to-be-ice pocket. These cheeses will still be edible, but their texture will have suffered and this will likely alter how the flavor reads to your taste buds.

Cheeses you can freeze (and those you shouldn’t)

Don’t worry, you don’t have to memorize a list of specific cheese names to ensure you freeze the right kind. Since water is the biggest victim of change in the freezer, you should only freeze cheeses with a lower water content. Consider freezing hard, aged cheeses, like parmesan, manchego, Iberico, or sharp cheddar. These products will experience less disruption to texture and flavor.

Cheeses that have a higher water content will likely experience some separation of water and fat and may look broken or grainy once thawed. So stay away from freezing cheeses that are spreadable and soft like brie, camembert, burrata, or blue cheese.

Some unexpected cheeses can live in your freezer too. I’ve found that anything shredded performs very well in the freezer. I never hesitate to toss a bag of shredded cheddar, provolone, or mozzarella into the freezer. Blocks of low moisture mozzarella also fare well in the freezer.

To thaw, simply leave the cheese in the fridge overnight and it’ll be usable for slicing the next day. Use shredded cheeses straight out of the freezer and sprinkle them into dishes; those fine pieces have no problem thawing and melting into hot foods within seconds. Enjoy the extended lifetime of your aged cheeses; as for your soft, spreadable cheeses, you now have an excuse to finish off them off before it gets weird in the fridge. 

Why You Should Consider an Electric Grill (and Three I Recommend)

5 June 2024 at 08:00

Buying a new grill can be a daunting task. What type do you need? What’s your budget? Are you buying your very first one? Summer is starting to pick up speed and you’ll want to make sure you get some good use out of this high-powered appliance while the weather's nice. Now’s the time to make some decisions.

Charcoal lovers and propane enthusiasts might have sown doubt into your opinions of an electric grill, but these grills have come a long way. No longer the weak, slow heating appliances of the early aughts, these appliances now pack plenty of power. If you're not sure whether one is right for you, read on to learn what factors you should consider, plus a list of some solid electric grills to make your search easier.


The outdoor electric grills in this post:


Is an electric grill right for you?

Unlike with coal and propane grills, an electric grill will allow you to set more precise temperature. Plug an electric grill into a regular outlet and use the dial to set your desired temperature, and that's it. The electric heating elements inside the base housing heat up the grill bars sitting above it with radiant heat. Once the grill has preheated, just like any grill would, you can start cooking.

Although you’ll miss out on some of that flame-charred flavor you’d get with other fuel sources, electric grills have a number of pros:

  • Accessible fuel. You’ve scraped off the grates only to realize your brother used all the gas and didn’t replace it—again. Or maybe you just hate messing around with charcoal. With an electric grill, there’s no need to fuss with finicky fuel because electricity is generally very easy to access at your home. 

  • Safety. Electric heat doesn’t require pilot lights or fire starters. That doesn’t mean there are zero flames—fat drips can still flare up briefly—but they’re nowhere near the type of flames and sparks that can erupt from other grill options. This makes electric grills beginner-friendly and a nice introduction to cooking on grill surfaces. 

  • Easy to control. Speaking of fire starters, are you tired of charcoal chimneys? Electric grills will begin preheating as soon as you tell it to, and the temperature is controlled with a dial. 

  • Ideal for small spaces. Electric grills don’t produce the smoke that charcoal grills do, and they come in a variety of sizes, which makes them an excellent option for rentals and areas with limited outdoor space.

Try the Weber Pulse for a large, center-of-attention grill

A gas-powered grill has a certain commanding stature to it. The large cart and side flaps create space for you to work and the grill area becomes an area that people gravitate to. Electric grills can seem diminutive by comparison. If you want that same sturdy look with the benefits of electric, buy the Weber Pulse ($979). It’s a bit of a splurge compared to the others, but this grill offers precision temperature control and you can stay informed by monitoring the temperature of the chicken thighs on the grill’s app while you walk over to the cooler to talk to friends.

Try the Weber Lumin for portable perks

If you have a small outdoor space, you may not want to have a standing outdoor grill constantly blocking the sun from your potted begonias. The Weber Lumin is more compact, the heating portion is fully detachable from the stand, and the stand collapses flat so you can store everything somewhere else. This model is small but mighty with 1.5 kilowatts and boasts a maximum temperature of 600 F. That’s plenty of heat to achieve good grill marks and even a whip up a grilled pizza. This model will work on a heat-resistant tabletop, but if you don’t have that, then make sure you get the Weber Lumin Electric Grill with the collapsible stand included ($530.44).

The George Foreman electric grill can go indoor to outdoor

It’s a luxury to have an indoor and an outdoor grill, but you don’t need to buy them separately. The George Foreman electric grill ($119.99) allows you to move the dinner party outside when the weather clears up, and it’s more budget-friendly than the others. True to the entire line of Foreman products, the heating element is built into the grill plate. This eliminates the danger of fats dripping onto an exposed heating element below and causing flare-ups. 

As always, keep it safe

Have fun grilling clean out there in your lawn or rental patio, but always use your grill as directed. That means don’t bring an outdoor one inside if it’s not meant to be inside, and vice versa. These appliances draw quite a bit of energy to heat up your food so make sure to plug it into its own outlet to get the best performance. If your outdoor-only electric grill is going to live outside, invest in an outdoor cover specific to the brand and model to keep the electronics in good shape.

Candy Your Olives for a Surprising Treat

4 June 2024 at 11:00

The only reason I came across sweetened olives is because I took a chance on a Christmas panettone. I was checking out the flavors from a fantastic panettone company, Olivieri 1882 (they offer more flavors during winter), and I stopped in my tracks when I saw White Chocolate and Olive panettone. It sounded absolutely revolting. I had to have it.  

I’m glad I took a chance on that panettone because I was smitten with the flavors. I expected to be overwhelmed with briny salty olives mismatched with cloying white chocolate chunks, but what I found were delicately sweetened olive pieces scattered through a light, fluffy loaf. The olives were tender but held onto their integrity, they highlighted the flavor of the white chocolate and yet they were the undisputed star of the sweet holiday bread.

Now I’m fully on board. We should all add candied olives to our dessert rotations. The olive is a fruit, after all; how often are olive oil aficionados noting their detection of “fruity notes” in a particular blend. As insufferable as that is, they’re not wrong. Olives, especially the green Castelvetrano olive that I use for this recipe, can have robust verdant, fruity flavors. It’s only because we’re rather accustomed to eating them after they’ve soaked up a salty, tart brine that olives have been confined to savory dishes and cheese boards. 

My stance on olives being a savory food has completely crumbled. Not only are syrupy olives my favorite panettone flavor, but I'm convinced that candied olives can fit right at home accompanying other sweet treats. They're strong enough to hold court in cakes, but happily yield to slicing, unlike nuts which can tear up the crumb. Here's how to make them at home from a store-bought jar.

How to candy your olives

The panettone used green olives, and although I haven’t confirmed this with the company, they looked to me like Castelvetrano olives, a mild olive with a bright, nearly blue-green, meaty flesh. The flavor of this variety is light and floral, and I think you can really taste the fruit. I grabbed a jar of those from the store and got to work.

Olives floating in a pot of water
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

1. Simmer the olives

Since I don’t have an olive orchard, my store-bought jarred olives are sitting in brine. In order to rinse some of that brine from the flesh of the fruit, simmer it in clean water. In a small pot, add about half the jar of olives and about two inches of water. Bring it to a simmer and let it boil gently for about five minutes. Rinse them out and repeat this with fresh water. 

2. Boil them in syrup

Rinse out the pot and the olives. Add equal parts, by weight, sugar and water to the pot. For half a jar of olives I used five ounces of water and five of sugar. Although the olives will float, you want enough simple syrup to cover the olives when you stir them. So if your pot is bigger then you’ll need more syrup. Add the olives to the pot and bring it up to a low boil. Let the olives simmer in the syrup for about 25 minutes, stirring every five minutes or so.

Olives in a ramekin
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

3. Let them sit

Turn off the heat and let the olives sit in the syrup, stirring occasionally, for an hour or until they’ve cooled to room temperature. 

The olives will look wrinkly—this is fine. They’ve done a bit of expanding and contracting. More importantly, you’ll notice that the flesh has become darker and taken on a translucent quality. This is great. The change in color and opacity means they’ve been properly candied. (If you think you might enjoy retaining a bit of that salty flavor from the brine, only do one fresh water simmer instead of two.)

Prepare for an olive like none you’ve ever tasted before. These candied Castelvetranos are sweet at first bite, followed by the aroma of an olive orchard in spring. (I’ve never been to an olive orchard, but I bet I’m right.) It’s a delicate, floral perfume that I thoroughly enjoy from such an unexpected place. Strain the syrup off of the candied olives and use them in vanilla or fruit-flavored cakes, quick breads, blondies, cookies, or simply scooped over a heap of ice cream.

Candied Castelvetrano Olives Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup jarred Castelvetrano olives (about 20 to 25 medium olives)

  • 5 ounces sugar

  • 5 ounces water

1. Put the olives in a small pot with two inches of clean tap water. Bring them up to a low boil and let them simmer like this for five minutes. Rinse out the water and olives, then fill the pot again and repeat.

2. Rinse out the water again and this time add the sugar and water for a simple syrup. Add the olives back into the pot. Bring it up to a simmer and, stirring occasionally, let the olives simmer in the syrup for about 25 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the olives cool in the syrup, stirring occasionally, for an hour, or until room temperature. Use immediately, or store them in the syrup in the fridge in a tightly covered container. I haven’t tested how long they’ll keep like this; most candied fruit covered in syrup will be fine for six months to a year. However, when in doubt, try to use it within the week. 

TikTok's Frozen Jell-O Grapes Need Help

3 June 2024 at 14:00

As usual, TikTok has manifested a food concept that is both horrifying and intriguing. Maybe you’ve already heard of frozen Jell-O grapes, but these didn’t roll across my desk until last week. I admit, I was excited to try it out. Some TikTok food “hacks” are absolutely worth trying—ramen carbonara is great and crookies are pretty damn good too—but in case you didn’t already know, you can’t always trust TikTok.

Frozen Jell-O grapes suck. Here’s how to make them suck less.

What are frozen Jell-O grapes?

I don’t like to yuck yums, but if I take issue with the method and the flavor results then it’s hard to find the bright side. Frozen Jell-O grapes are fresh grapes, dipped in water and rolled in straight-up powdered Jell-O. Freeze them solid, and then eat them out of the freezer for an icy, sugary snack. 

The trouble is the amount of work you have to do just to make an already perfect fruit worse. Most recipes I came across instruct you to remove the grapes from the stem, rinse them in water and then, working one at a time, insert a toothpick into each grape to roll it around in Jell-O powder. The powder is meant to stick to the wet spots on the fruit. I did about seven like this. It is a waste of time. (Read my tips to make the process easier and faster.)

Once you’ve dusted them with the Jell-O powder and given them a good hour or two to freeze, the grapes are supposed to taste like cold candy. I thought maybe the frozen concentrated Jell-O spots would change somehow; maybe they would become chewy like gummies. Nope, it tastes like you’re eating Jell-O powder, and undiluted like this, the flavor of powdered gelatin is more prominent than even the artificial strawberry flavoring.

Improve them with acid

Suddenly I was faced with a cluster of frozen organic grapes covered in red powdered disappointment, but I refused to throw them out. The only fix I could think of was that I needed to make them sour. Artificial berry flavoring lends itself well to a sour kick (as do dry fruits) with most candies, so why not lean in? I didn’t have any citric acid around, so I did what any responsible adult would do and I bought a share-size pack of Sour Patch Kids. I poured them through a sieve and caught the loose powdered acids and sugar in a bowl. I dipped the frozen grapes in the tangy dust, and lo—they were improved. The gelatin’s flavor was considerably diminished, and the grapes were fun to snack on in the way that sour powder makes everything fun to snack on.

I will never make these again, but if you must try frozen Jell-O grapes, make your experience better with these tips:

Keep them on the stem. There is no need to dip each grape one at a time. Pour half the packet of Jell-O into a wide bowl. Keep the grapes on the stem and rinse them with water or dip them in a bowl of water. Without shaking off the excess water, place the cluster of grapes into the bowl of powder and use the other half of the packet to pour the powder over the top, tilting the cluster to get the sides. Place the entire cluster onto a parchment lined sheet tray in the freezer. When you're ready to eat them, just pull them off the stem.

Hand holding Jell-O powdered grapes with citric acid.
A small dip in citric acid goes a long way. Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

Use citric acid to improve the flavor. You can buy a pouch of citric acid, or do what I did and use the excess that gathers on the bottom of a bag of sour candy. Pour the citric acid into a small bowl as a side car while you eat. After the grapes have frozen, dip the grape you’re about to eat in the powder before popping it in your mouth. Even if you’re a big fan of the regular Jell-O grapes, you’ll still enjoy the sour kick. 

Try a different liquid. Besides rinsing off any stray leaves and dust, the water is there to help give the powder something to absorb into, but you don’t have to use water. You can add flavor by using any drink you like. Try apple juice, lemon juice, Gatorade, or Diet Coke, if you want to. Only a bit will make it to the end, but you might enjoy the extra undertone of flavor.

How to Bake a Potato

3 June 2024 at 08:51
After yesterday's rosin-fest, I thought it would be useful and uncontroversial to post definitive information about how* to bake a potato.

* This is not how I bake potatoes. I set the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit, scrub the potato clean, either wrap it in foil or don't wrap it in foil, and put it in to bake for 60-75 minutes, depending on size.

The most intense potato flavor you've ever experienced.

By: dmd
2 June 2024 at 11:17
Rosin is highly flammable, and its fumes are noxious. So what better way to cook a potato? Boiling potatoes in molten rosin - a byproduct of pine sap distillation - seals in the flavor. "You get the most intense potato flavor you've ever experienced." If you're not up for boiling rosin yourself (Joy of Cooking, probably wisely, removed its recipe in the '98 edition), head to the Catface Country Turpentine Festival in Portal, Georgia, a "Rockwellian small-town festival replete with event-themed floats and beauty queens". (Catface refers to the scars left behind by the extraction of resin.) Alternatively, you can hop in your DeLorean and head to Cracker Barrel, which served rosin potatoes in the 80s. Or Doctor Potato (not a real doctor, but a team of potato experts) notes you could try coating your spud in a jacket of salt and egg. Previously...

All the Ways I Like to Eat Pop-Tarts

31 May 2024 at 17:00

The simple Pop-Tart has come a long way since its inception in the 1960s. Although they don’t look different, the way they’re eaten has undergone some whimsical experimentation. This tracks for the colorful, jam-filled, toaster-friendly treat with teeny tiny sprinkles on top. If it’s been a while since you’ve dipped your toes into the jam-filled breakfast pastry pool, this is your sign to take the plunge. Here are some of the best ways to eat Pop-Tarts.

Eat ‘em frozen

Out of respect for the warmer temperatures approaching, the first few Pop-Tart suggestions will be a treat to cool you down. I’d never recommend a hot toaster oven when it’s 80°F; I just wouldn’t stand for it. Instead, gift yourself a frozen Pop-Tart. Take the foil sleeves out of the cardboard box (the cardboard gets humid and takes up extra space) and keep them stashed in the freezer until you need it most. The pastry gains a crisp texture and the jam never gets icy—instead it ends up pleasantly chewy.

Pop-Tart ice cream.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

Crumble them into ice cream

Plain flavor ice cream is fine, but I’m much more likely to get a pint of ice cream loaded with stuff. I like caramel swirls, chocolate bits, cheesecake blobs, you name it. So when I tested out a no-churn ice cream, you better believe I crumbled Pop-Tarts into it. It’s easiest to fold it into the soft-serve-like stage when you’re making your own ice cream at home, but you can do it with store-bought too. Leave the ice cream in the fridge for 30 to 45 minutes to soften. Scoop it into a bowl and mix in the pastry chunks. You can return it to the pint to freeze it hard, or just start chowing down. 

Stack up an ice cream sandwich

Ice cream sandwiches are inherently fun, and when the “bread” is Pop-Tarts, the lucky eater is bound to crack a smile. I enjoy Pop-Tarts ice cream sandwiches because you can really take liberties with flavor combinations. At any given time, Pop-Tarts will have classic flavors (like strawberry, blueberry, and brown sugar cinnamon) but I constantly see the shelves stocked with weirdo-beardo flavors too, like Apple Jacks, Boston Creme Donut, or Frosted Strawberry Milkshake. Pair those with any of the numerous ice creams in the freezer section and you’ve got a delightful treat. Here’s how to make a Pop-Tart ice cream sandwich.

A pie crust on a wire rack
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

Use Pop-Tarts for pie crust

Usually graham cracker crumb crusts are the standard for chilled pies and tarts, but why not switch up the crumb for something a bit more nostalgic (not to mention colorful). The best part is, it’s a one-ingredient crust. Throw a few Pop-Tarts in a food processor and blend it down into small crumbs. Press the pieces into a pie dish and the jam particles will help bind the crust together. Read this for the full method

A spoon scooping a Pop-Tart trifle.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn Reinmann

Make the world’s laziest trifle

Cookies and milk are inextricably linked, which is why I think Pop-Tarts and heavy cream are easy friends. Make a perverted trifle of multiple flavors of Pop-Tarts layered with whipped cream for a quick crowd-pleaser when you have no energy or will to go buy the custard and cake for a “proper” trifle.

Crumble topping for muffins and cakes

The main thing that makes a crumb cake so irresistibly good is the streusel topping. And yet, my least favorite thing about making a crumb cake is taking the extra time to whip up that very same topping. Here’s an easy work around: Top your cakes with crushed Pop-Tarts. I use crushed ginger snaps in this recipe but the same method applies for your breakfast pastries.

Zhuzh up your milkshakes

I don’t have to convince you that a milkshake is a good idea, but you should know that any milk shake you make can be a lot more fun if it’s loaded with Pop-Tarts. That’s correct, you can drink your Pop-Tarts, and you should. It’s easy with a blender too. Simply add your favorite brand of vanilla ice cream, a sleeve of tarts, and a bit of milk. Buzz away, and grab a straw.

Replace toast with tarts

When you eat Pop-Tarts straight out of the foil package, or even gently toasted, you’re shorting yourself. Sure, they have flavor already, but that sweet filling is more like a nudge. Pop-Tarts are actually great toast replacements. Slather on a layer of jam, Nutella, or fluff. Why not add a schmear and some fresh strawberry slices? Spread on a thick coat of peanut butter and top it with sliced bananas for a snack that’s fit to rival any slice of 12-grain. The flavor combinations are endless, and if you haven’t already, now’s a good time to add a box of Cherry Frosted to your grocery list. 

Make This Girl Scout Cookie Thin Mint Dupe

30 May 2024 at 16:00

It’s a shame that Girl Scout Cookie season is so short. Although it gives me something to look forward to at the end of March, once May rolls around I’ve completely cleared out my cookie stash. If you missed Girl Scout Cookie season (or you just miss it emotionally), I’d like to help you work through these tough months before the next one rolls around. For the next few weeks, I’ll be testing out copycat recipes for the most popular flavors so you can make them at home. Let’s start with the superstar of simplicity: Thin Mints. 

All GSC fans know that the thin mint sets the standard for mint cookies. It’s a small bite. A crunchy, no-frills chocolate cookie on the inside with a thin chocolate shell. Then the cool breeze of mint passes through. It’s always best to buy at least two boxes: one for the first 10 minutes, and the second to pace yourself. 

Tips on making Thin Mints at home

Imitating this famous cookie is relatively simple. The cookie itself can be made with any reliable chocolate pâte sablée recipe (essentially a mixture of butter, sugar, a bit of egg, cocoa, and flour) with the addition of mint extract. The dough is easy to roll out, and baking them is a breeze. To make the cookie dough, I modified this recipe from Baked by an Introvert. 

The site above mentions “cookies are best when served cold,” which is true—many of us enjoy thin mints out of the freezer—but that’s less a nice tip here and more a necessity. That's because the coating is too damn soft at room temperature, due to the recipe's inclusion of vegetable oil. To get around this, I recommend using melted chocolate morsels only, which will still be tacky at room temperature but not gooey. Alternatively, you can use chocolate melting wafers (like the one below), which are designed to set without tempering.

When rolling out the cookies in this recipe, try to take the dough down to shy of a quarter-inch in thickness for a more accurate copycat (they’re Thin Mints after all). If the dough is too hard to handle at that thinness, it’s okay to make thick mints. Just make sure to bake them for a minute or two longer so they’re crisp after they cool. 

Thin Mints Copycat Recipe 

Ingredients:

For the dough

  • 1 ⅓ cup all-purpose flour

  • ¼ cup cocoa powder

  • 1 stick butter, room temperature

  • ⅓ cup sugar

  • ¼ teaspoon salt

  • ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

  • ½ teaspoon peppermint extract

  • 1 egg white

For the chocolate coating

  • ¾ cup semi-sweet chocolate morsels, melted (or melting wafers)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet tray with parchment paper.

2. Use a rubber spatula and mix the soft butter and sugar together in a medium bowl until well combined. There’s no need to make it fluffy. Add the salt, egg, and extracts. In a small bowl, whisk the flour and cocoa powder together to disperse the cocoa evenly, then mix it into the butter mixture in two installments. This will help ensure you don’t end up wearing the cocoa powder. The dough will be thick but workable. 

2. Place the dough on plastic wrap or parchment paper. Flatten the dough into discs with the wrap, and pop them into the fridge for about 30 minutes. 

3. Dust the countertop with a bit of flour and unwrap the dough. Roll it into a thin sheet, rotating it after every pass with the pin to ensure the dough isn’t sticking. Use a round cookie cutter, 1.5-inch or 2-inch is fine, and cut out circles. Place them on a parchment lined baking sheet an inch apart. Bake them at 350°F for 10 to 12 minutes, or until firm and matte. Cool them completely.

4. To make the chocolate coating, gently melt the morsels in the microwave in 30 or 15 second bursts. Dunk each cookie in the coating and fish it out with a fork. Use the flat edge of a rubber spatula to swipe off most of the chocolate so the coating is thin. Put the cookies on a wire rack to cool, and you can even pop them in the fridge for ten minutes to speed up the cooling.

Enjoy out of the fridge or freezer for a chilled treat, and you can thank the Girl Scouts for this inspiration by donating if you like.

Try This Breakfast Mac and Cheese

30 May 2024 at 08:00

I have great news, pasta fam: Contrary to what you may have been told, mac and cheese can be breakfast. Not even as a throw-caution-to-the-wind statement of “I do what I want,” but as a hearty start to your day, and a smart way to use up leftover pasta. I should also mention it takes mere minutes to make. Start your day like a responsible adult, with a heaping bowl of breakfast mac and cheese. 

At first glance, the star of this dish seems to be loads of cheese to make a heavy sauce. You're not wrong—cheese is indeed a key player—but soft scrambled eggs are actually the unsung hero, making up a good portion of the sauce and bulking up the consistency. The eggs paired with the right combination of cheeses blend together into small curds that coat the pasta. When you scoop it up, the cheese pulls and melts, and it tastes like a creamy indulgence—just like mac and cheese should—with the added bonus of protein from the eggs. 

How to make breakfast mac and cheese

To start, prepare your combination of cheeses. Just as a grilled cheese sandwich relies on its dairy, so does a good mac. Different cheeses act differently under heat—some are more stretchy, others are ideal for melting, and some don’t melt at all. I like a lot of melt and a little stretch, so I reached for a soft havarti, some cheddar, and a spoonful of cream cheese to create a saucy base. 

Whisk two eggs in a bowl with a pinch of salt. In a frying pan, melt a teaspoon of butter over medium-low heat. Add in the cold leftover pasta and let it develop some crispy spots. If your pasta has congealed into an indestructible brick, add a teaspoon of water and cover the pan with a lid for a few minutes. The humidity will help loosen up the pasta. 

I cut up a chicken sausage and added it to the pan at this stage. Once the eggs go in, the dish finishes up in a snap, so if you want to add any veggies, meats, or seasonings, add it now while the pasta heats up. Stir the mixture with a rubber spatula. When you see some crispy brown sections show up on the noodles, add the cheeses. Stir them in with the other ingredients, and then pour in the eggs. 

Turn off the heat right after you add the eggs and stir to combine. Cover the pan with a lid and leave it on the warm burner for two or three minutes. This will continue to cook the eggs gently and melt the cheeses thoroughly. If you leave the heat on, the eggs will cook (and probably overcook) before the cheese warms through. It’ll still taste good, but you won’t get the same creamy texture. 

Take the lid off and stir the mixture again. I topped it all off with chopped chives (because, vegetables), and heaped the golden mass into a bowl. This is a great breakfast to make if you have a container of leftover pasta, but you can also just boil up some fresh noods real quick if you have a hankering. Feel free to personalize the add-ins beyond sausage chunks. Add frozen peas, chopped peppers, or cooked bacon instead.

Breakfast Mac and Cheese Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 2 eggs

  • 1 teaspoon butter 

  • Pinch salt

  • 1 cup of leftover, cooked pasta

  • 1 sausage patty, chopped (or other add-ins)

  • 1 ounce of havarti cheese, roughly chopped

  • ¼ cup shredded cheddar

  • 1 tablespoon cream cheese

  • Garnish with chopped chives

1. Whisk the eggs in a bowl and set aside. Heat a frying pan over medium-low and add the butter. Add the leftover pasta and chopped sausage (or whatever add-ins you’re using) with a pinch of salt, and stir with a rubber spatula. 

2. Once the pasta begins to brown in areas, add in the chopped havarti, shredded cheddar, and cream cheese. Stir briefly before pouring in the whisked eggs. Turn off the heat and stir the mixture for a moment.

3. Cover the pan with a well-fitting lid and let it sit on the warm burner for 2-3 minutes. Uncover and stir the mac and cheese. The cheese should all have melted through and the eggs should be cooked and blending in with the cheese. If the mixture is more wet than you prefer, cover it again and you can even snap on the heat for another minute or so. Garnish with chopped chives and enjoy while warm. 

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