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‘How green are our valleys?’: in the footsteps of miners on south Wales’s new forest trail

20 October 2026 at 02:00

The first stage of an ambitious new hiking route that will link woodlands across Wales takes walkers into the wild hills above the valleys’ old mining villages

Bracken and heather ripple across the plateau. I exhale into the chill autumn air and my breath mists a view that reaches all the way to Gower and the ochre peaks of Bannau Brycheiniog (formerly the Brecon Beacons). Far below, the Ogmore valley’s terrace houses look like tiny constellations but up here on Tarren y Fforch, it’s just me and a few sheep taking springy steps between tufts of bilberries. If this corner of the south Wales valleys feels a long way from its coal mining past, that is, partly, the point.

I’m hiking the new Llwybr Coedwig Cymru Trail, or Wales Forest Trail. Running from Porthkerry Park, near Barry, to Pont Walby, close to Glynneath, this 50-mile (80km) pilot route is the first section of what the National Forest for Wales hopes will eventually be a trail linking woodlands across the length and breadth of Wales: a sylvan counterpart to the Wales Coast Path.

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© Photograph: Rhiannon Batten

© Photograph: Rhiannon Batten

© Photograph: Rhiannon Batten

Tourists are avoiding York, my home town – but I know how to get them back

19 October 2026 at 06:00

Are they put off by the hen parties, the tea rooms or the £5-an-hour parking? No matter. It’s time for my bold new approach ...

York may be falling out of fashion with tourists. The BBC reports January-to-June visitor numbers to my home town fell 8% compared with 2025, with visits to city attractions down by 17%.

This inspires a cocktail of conflicting emotions – selfish relief, a bit of huffiness (how dare they reject the birthplace of the Chocolate Orange and the KitKat?) and consternation. Slaloming through unpredictable, slow-moving tourist hordes in narrow medieval streets is far from my favourite activity (albeit probably good for my cognitive reserve), but tourists keep this city afloat. Our main economic activities in 2026 are “dressing up”, “tea and cake”, and “hen/stag night services (sub-categories: booze, kebabs, feather boas)”. This city runs on genteel treats and big, messy nights out: two things that are, yes, deeply incompatible. I wonder if that’s part of the problem – the bookshops, churches and scones crowd are put off by the inflatable-penis-toting, kebab-throwing party people, and vice versa – but most residents blame the £5-an-hour parking.

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© Photograph: Simon Dack/Alamy

© Photograph: Simon Dack/Alamy

© Photograph: Simon Dack/Alamy

Pools, palm trees and pulling a caravan: Australian retro holidays – in pictures

16 October 2026 at 10:00

Take a nostalgic look back at how Australians used to holiday throughout the 1950s, 60s and 70s. A new book by Ian Collis features vintage caravans, seaside motels and charming snapshots of summer road trips past

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© Photograph: supplied

© Photograph: supplied

© Photograph: supplied

‘Wrong’ type of credit card wrecked my Enterprise car hire pickup

19 October 2026 at 02:00

Not having the right kind when picking up a vehicle can leave travellers scrambling to find alternative transport

If your children are on half-term holiday soon and you are planning to collect a hire car, make sure you have the right kind of credit card. These cautionary tales show the costly consequences if yours does not pass muster.

I hired a car for a family holiday from Enterprise Rent-A-Car in France. The collection desk at Carcassonne airport refused to hand over the keys when I presented the Visa credit card used for the booking because it was issued by First Direct. It told me it did not accept cards from online banks.

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© Photograph: Alex Ramsay/Alamy

© Photograph: Alex Ramsay/Alamy

© Photograph: Alex Ramsay/Alamy

‘No influencers’: the hotels, restaurants and beauty spots restricting photoshoots

19 October 2026 at 00:00

Backlash against content creators includes restricted hours for filming and even outright bans

Stand in any vaguely photogenic spot these days on holiday and the chances are you will come across people posing with raised phones and even ring lights. Some may be influencers with huge audiences on social media, others just overkeen Instagram users. With hotels and beauty spots now so overrun, however, bans on photography are coming into place.

The five-star Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes, known for its glamorous clientele, views of the Côte d’Azur and a stunning infinity pool, has brought in rules against photoshoots: no longer allowed without prior permission.

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© Photograph: imageBROKER.com/PR

© Photograph: imageBROKER.com/PR

© Photograph: imageBROKER.com/PR

‘We hang on to summer a little longer here’: five of the best places for autumn sun in Europe and Turkey

If you’re looking for a last blast of summer, these sunny resorts offer quiet beaches but enough life to stave off the end-of-season blues

A Kalkan sunset is always a beautiful thing – the horseshoe-shaped bay deepening to azure blue against an apricot-rose sky – but, in October, when the light is low and the sun drops early, it’s almost transcendentally lovely. In some Turkish resorts, you’d be sitting watching it surrounded by quiet streets, half-empty bars and that melancholic sense that another season is over. In Kalkan, it still feels like summer; the harbourfront restaurants throng with visitors, the day gulets (wooden boats) still putter in and out of the bay and you don’t have to wait an hour to get a taxi back to your villa.

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© Photograph: Stephen Hughes/Alamy

© Photograph: Stephen Hughes/Alamy

© Photograph: Stephen Hughes/Alamy

A Greece for all seasons: my autumn roadtrip through the Peloponnese

17 October 2026 at 02:00

An out-of-season journey through the peninsula reveals Byzantine villages, deserted beaches and friendly tavernas

As I drove across the causeway which links the tiny fortress island of Monemvasia to the south-eastern coast of the Peloponnese, the Aegean sparkling on all sides, I recalled a line by Yiannis Ritsos, one of Greece’s greatest 20th-century poets. Ritsos lived in Monemvasia, in a house that is today a museum on a cobble-stretch by the tawny castle walls. A favourite passage goes: “The voyage is neither a leave-taking nor a home-coming – an ethereal bridge …”

The excuse for my trip to the Peloponnese’s deep south – Messinia, the Mani, and Laconia – fell between those two ideas. My mother has roots in the Peloponnese – a sort-of homecoming that I’ve long wanted to explore – and with the summer over and greedy for an adventure to myself, I set out by car, leaving Kalamata, the leafy port city and gateway to the area, on a coastal road circuit.

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© Photograph: Jason Rambach/Getty Images/500px

© Photograph: Jason Rambach/Getty Images/500px

© Photograph: Jason Rambach/Getty Images/500px

Extreme heatwaves in Europe not changing Britons’ holiday plans, say travel bosses

Hot summer getaways are still popular – but tourism industry fears impact of rising jet fuel costs and squeezed household incomes

After a year marked by extreme heat and war sending fuel prices skywards, British travel executives hoped for solace in Madeira’s benign subtropical climate, separated by hundreds of miles of blue sea from the overtourism protests and six-hour EU-entry queues seen on the Portuguese mainland.

As bosses admitted, holidays will be ever less affordable, AI is coming for their jobs, and the visitable world is shrinking – not least those parts where tourists remain welcome.

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© Photograph: AFP/Getty Images

© Photograph: AFP/Getty Images

© Photograph: AFP/Getty Images

‘A haven of soft light, warm sunshine and sandy beaches’: readers’ favourite autumn escapes

16 October 2026 at 02:00

In search of autumn festivals, good food and islands where it still feels like summer? We asked you to recommend your best off-season breaks

• Tell us about a spooky spot in the UK – the best tip wins a £200 holiday voucher

Last October, while I was cycling around south-west France, near the Spanish border, a tip from a local waiter led me to Collioure, near Perpignan. The town was like a Mediterranean dream, where the summer crowds had faded, leaving behind a peaceful, artistic haven of soft light, warm sunshine, cobbled streets, sandy beaches – and the Pyrenees as a backdrop. In the early evening, the still balmy autumn air was perfect for wandering through the quiet, pastel-coloured alleyways of the Le Mouré district to enjoy €5 off-season happy hour wine with fish tapas. I had planned to stay a weekend but ended up staying a week, seduced by Collioure’s perfect autumn cocktail of chilled Catalan culture and sunkissed seaside sensuality.
April

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© Photograph: Patrick Donovan/Getty Images

© Photograph: Patrick Donovan/Getty Images

© Photograph: Patrick Donovan/Getty Images

The Welsh mountain inn that helped conquer Everest

15 October 2026 at 02:00

As a new film about Sherpa Tenzing Norgay is released, we visit Pen-Y-Gwryd, the Snowdonia hotel that served as British ‘base camp’ for the 1953 expedition and where the spirit of adventure lives on

In the early hours of 2 June 1953, guests at the Pen-Y-Gwryd hotel in the heart of Eryri (Snowdonia) were woken from their sleep by the sound of footsteps running down the corridor outside their rooms. The commotion was followed by gleeful shouting and the sound of champagne corks popping. A late-night telephone call to the hotel’s owner had moments earlier confirmed that Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay had successfully summited Mount Everest. It had taken two days for the news to travel from the Himalayas to London. Serendipitously, news of the historic achievement coincided with the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II later that day.

In the days and weeks that followed, the two mountaineers were feted across the front pages of newspapers around the world. Posing awkwardly for the cameras, their beaming smiles shone out of frost-burnt faces. In the decades that followed, Tenzing Norgay’s role in the expedition was increasingly marginalised – he was a Sherpa, indigenous to the area, and the load-carrying guide, while Hillary firmly planted his ice axe in the history books.

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© Photograph: Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel

© Photograph: Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel

© Photograph: Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel

Winter warmers: 10 of Britain’s best heated lidos

14 October 2026 at 03:04

From an infinity pool with sauna in Scotland to a restored Victorian gem in Bristol, here are 10 great spots where you can swim in comfort year-round

Portavadie, on the banks of Loch Fyne on the west coast of Scotland, was originally earmarked as an oil rig, but plans fell through. Today it is a marina with holiday homes, a restaurant and bar, a gift shop, and a leisure centre with what is believed to be the biggest heated outdoor infinity pool in Scotland. There are also outdoor spa pools and a sauna, an indoor pool and a gym; treatments such as massages and facials are available. The facilities are powered by a woodchip biomass generator, and have views across the loch and over to the Isle of Arran.
£14 for a 90-minute swim, sauna and hot tub

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© Photograph: portavadie.com

© Photograph: portavadie.com

© Photograph: portavadie.com

Fewer Britons plan to ringfence money for holidays abroad next year, says travel industry

Spain remains most popular destination as Britons book later in hope of better deals, Abta report finds

The UK’s cost of living squeeze means fewer people plan to ringfence money for holidays abroad next year, the travel industry has warned.

Despite war, wildfires and EES border checks, the numbers of Britons taking holidays climbed back to pre-pandemic levels this year – but rising costs may mean the numbers have peaked, according to an annual travel industry report on Tuesday.

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© Photograph: Owen Humphreys/PA

© Photograph: Owen Humphreys/PA

© Photograph: Owen Humphreys/PA

‘A winning combination of culture and nature’: exploring Germany’s green heart by bus

13 October 2026 at 02:00

From ancient forests to spas, medieval cities and the birthplace of Bauhaus, Thuringia packs a punch for a car-free autumn break

It’s early morning in Erfurt, the capital of Germany’s Thuringia region, and Domplatz is abuzz with local growers setting out crates of vegetables and flowers beneath the soaring medieval cathedral towers. This 14th- and 15th-century engineering wonder holds the Gloriosa, the world’s largest medieval free-swinging bell, cast in 1497 and weighing 12 tonnes. Though the city and surrounding landscape are notably flat, its skyline is pierced by soaring church towers and steeples, the atmospheric old town hardly changed over the centuries.

Thuringia – often called the “green heart of Germany” – lies in the centre of the country, between Hesse, Saxony and Bavaria. It’s famous for its dense forests, intellectual heritage and hearty cuisine, and I’m here for four days to explore using public transport.

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© Photograph: Mo-Jo-Lo/Getty Images

© Photograph: Mo-Jo-Lo/Getty Images

© Photograph: Mo-Jo-Lo/Getty Images

Free ice-cream, glowing skin and camping wins: Filter UK writers reveal the unexpected perks of product testing

12 October 2026 at 10:00

Our testers reflect on a year of discoveries, from family game nights to fewer chores

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It’s our birthday! So to celebrate turning two, we asked our contributors to reflect on their year of testing pretty much everything – from beauty products to video doorbells. It turns out they’ve had some unexpected wins along the way.

Some managed to tick an extra thing off their to-do list. “After six months of testing IPL devices, epilators and then IPL devices again, I had no need to book in for my usual pre-beach wax this summer,” says Lise Smith. Rachel Ogden says testing toasters has meant knowing her smoke alarm “works just fine”.

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© Photograph: Sian Lewis

© Photograph: Sian Lewis

© Photograph: Sian Lewis

A lakeside idyll: laid-back cycling and autumn hikes on Italy’s Lake Iseo

12 October 2026 at 02:00

Smaller and less visited than Como and Garda, Lake Iseo harbours a gorgeous car-free island ideal for easy-going cycling and sightseeing

Rust red and burnt sienna speckle the green mountain rising from Lake Iseo. Golden autumn sunlight shimmers on the water. Monte Isola, Italy’s largest lake island, is a peak of sheer cliffs and dense forest, dotted with old fishing hamlets and hillside villages, each as pretty as the terraced villas of Lake Como and Garda, but with far fewer visitors. I arrive at the small port town of Peschiera Maraglio – where striped wooden boats jut from the water like the gondolas of Venice – on a ferry from Sulzano, a five-minute hop across the water.

“Only three people on the island are allowed to own a car: the priest, the doctor and the mayor,” says Chiara, my tour guide from Brescia. Residents can zip up and down the steep island roads on mopeds, and a small fleet of van-sized buses trundle around throughout the day, but nearly all cars are forbidden and visitors have to explore on foot or bike.

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© Photograph: Simone Polattini/Alamy

© Photograph: Simone Polattini/Alamy

© Photograph: Simone Polattini/Alamy

Healing waters: 10 of the best spa towns in Europe for a restorative autumn break

11 October 2026 at 02:00

From Alpine valleys to belle époque towns, dip your toes in the therapeutic waters and steaming mineral pools at spa hotels offering centuries-old healing treatments

In 2021, Unesco designated 11 historic spa towns across Europe as one transnational world heritage site, recognising their “exceptional testimony to the European spa phenomenon, which gained its highest expression from around 1700 until the 1930s”. This was the original wellness tourism, and these grand health resorts include Bath in England and the town of Spa in Belgium, as well as the west Bohemia spa triangle of Karlovy Vary, Františkovy Lázně and Mariánské Lázně.

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© Photograph: Jan Prerovsky/janprerovsky.com

© Photograph: Jan Prerovsky/janprerovsky.com

© Photograph: Jan Prerovsky/janprerovsky.com

Spa bliss in the Alps: hot springs and hiking in the shadow of Mont Blanc

10 October 2026 at 02:00

An autumn break in the French mountain town of Saint-Gervais-Les-Bains offers thermal treatments and glorious walking trails before the winter ski crowds descend

Mont Blanc is hiding behind the clouds, but the Aiguille du Midi spears the sky above a mountainside ablaze with russet, gold and tawny tones. The maples flare red; rowan trees are dusted with crimson berries.

Our little group has trundled up to Mont Lachat station (altitude: 2,115 metres) on the Tramway du Mont Blanc, the century-old cog railway that climbs improbably steep slopes from the French alpine town of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains. Operational since 1909, the railway was once intended to reach the 4,809-metre summit of Mont Blanc, but war, glacial terrain and waning funds put an end to that ambition. But even from Mont Lachat, the view is a showstopper. On one side, the Bionnassay Glacier slips scenically down the slope, a buzzard soaring over the milky-green glacial lake at its base, while on the other the Chamonix valley basks in soft autumnal sunshine.

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© Photograph: tourism.saintgervais.com

© Photograph: tourism.saintgervais.com

© Photograph: tourism.saintgervais.com

I hitchhiked from Sydney to Perth, and found comfort in the company of strangers

9 October 2026 at 10:00

The lost practice of hitchhiking is a subculture, an art, and a way of travel that satisfies wanderlust like no other trip. Plus, it costs nothing

I’m alone, hunched over by a dusty road junction, and feeling the bite of the morning sun. I’ve already been waiting here, on the outskirts of Esperance on the south coast of Western Australia, for more than three hours. Another wave of traffic approaches. I smile, stretch out my arm and raise my thumb.

Most drivers who pass wave or give me a thumbs up. One gives me the finger. There isn’t much traffic. Someone tosses a water bottle out their window at me.

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© Photograph: Em Jensen

© Photograph: Em Jensen

© Photograph: Em Jensen

‘A candlelit spa, followed by an ice-cold plunge and a nightcap’: readers’ favourite European wellbeing breaks

9 October 2026 at 02:00

From a historic bathhouse in Sweden to forest bathing in Croatia, readers share their favourite places to relax and recharge

• Tell us about a small European ski resort – the best tip wins a £200 holiday voucher

Tucked away off a pretty shopping street in a beautiful art nouveau building is one of Stockholm’s oldest spas, Centralbadet where a day ticket costs from £23. As winter darkness descends, candles are lit around the pool and a quiet calm envelops you. Swimming by candlelight is a treat. Next a sauna followed by an ice-cold plunge. Afterwards a nightcap is in order so it’s a brisk walk in the cold crisp air to Fotografiska restaurant. It’s a great spot to savour one of Stockholm’s best views; the old town Gamla Stan and the twinkling lights on Lake Mälaren.
Sarah Rochfort

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© Photograph: PR

© Photograph: PR

© Photograph: PR

‘Vibrant, design-led and surprisingly green’: why the Dutch city of Eindhoven is perfect for a relaxed arty break

8 October 2026 at 03:17

After electronics giant Philips left, the city reinvented itself as a multicultural hub for creativity and innovation, and the home of Dutch Design Week

A baggily clad skateboarder’s wheels clatter across concrete floors, the noise bouncing off exposed pipes and iron girders. Vaulted skylights set in high ceilings illuminate the industrial space and its central kitchen, from which my main course – a silky lemon risotto, spiked with samphire, rhubarb, garlic, baby onions and basil – has just been transported.

I’m in the Dutch city of Eindhoven, in North Brabant, famous for its historic connection to Philips, the one-time electronics giant. The restaurant, Radio Royaal, is housed in what was once their engine room, in the Strijp-S neighbourhood. Today, Strijp-S buzzes with concept stores, an indoor food market, MU Hybrid Art House and the Area 51 skatepark. The broader area, Strijp, was where the company was largely headquartered: its zones are named S, T and R. In the late 90s, Philips withdrew from the city where it had started in 1891, and the letters I, J and P were never assigned.

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© Photograph: Nick Bookelaar

© Photograph: Nick Bookelaar

© Photograph: Nick Bookelaar

‘It’s hard to imagine the fires of July’: a bike ride through the Cairngorms in Scotland

7 October 2026 at 02:00

Wildfires raged through the national park this summer, but much of the landscape remains untouched – and autumn is the perfect time to go

In the Cairngorms national park, the bracken is changing from dark green to russet and umber. Birch leaves are lined with gold, while the Scots pines remain proudly green. Autumn is arriving with a little sigh of relief here, after a summer few will forget.

The wildfire that began near Glenmore and Abernethy on 15 July burned more than 33 sq km (13 sq miles) of moorland and forest. More than 500 firefighters were involved; homes and businesses were evacuated; and the emergency response lasted over a month. Visiting now, it’s hard to see, or even imagine, the damage. Much of the burned area is high on the hill and far from the roads. It’s a huge loss but, in a national park stretching 4,528 sq km (1,748 sq miles), surprisingly easy to miss.

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© Photograph: Markus Stitz

© Photograph: Markus Stitz

© Photograph: Markus Stitz

Fine scenery, historic towns and great pubs: a weekend walk on the Shropshire Way

6 October 2026 at 02:00

A new series of rambles cuts the 185-mile trail into bitesize portions reachable by train, with urban beavers, the Devil’s Chair tor and some delicious food along the way

Few pubs boast a more idyllic setting. As I emerge from the woods after a 15-mile hike, The Bridges, on the banks of the Onny River, in the rolling south Shropshire hills, glistens in the late afternoon sun. Inside it’s all wooden beams, with light streaming through stained glass and huge bunches of homegrown flowers adding splashes of colour. There’s time for a pint before general manager Sam Thompson shows me to my room in the recently converted stables.

I’m here exploring part of the 185-mile (297km) Shropshire Way, on a two-day Heart of the Hills hike – one of the county tourist board’s new Rail-Ready Short Breaks. Designed for people who don’t have time to tackle the whole route, the itineraries focus on loops that are easy to access by train, with illustrated PDF downloads, GPX files, accommodation suggestions and highlights of what to do along the way. My route will take me from Shrewsbury to Bishop’s Castle via Ratlinghope – about 27 miles, perfect for a weekend.

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© Photograph: Simon Whaley Landscapes/Alamy

© Photograph: Simon Whaley Landscapes/Alamy

© Photograph: Simon Whaley Landscapes/Alamy

Send us a travel tip on a small ski resort in Europe

5 October 2026 at 08:26

Tell us about a European ski resort that has retained its relaxed, uncrowded feel – the best tip wins £200 towards a Coolstays break

This winter thousands of holidaymakers will be packing their thermals and heading for the ski slopes. We’d love to hear about your favourite smaller ski resort, one which has managed to hang on to its local character and charm, whether it’s in the Alps, the Pyrenees, Scandinavia or eastern Europe.

The best tip of the week, chosen by Tom Hall of Lonely Planet wins a £200 voucher to stay at a Coolstays property – the company has more than 3,000 worldwide. The best tips will appear in the Guardian Travel section and website.

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© Photograph: Remedios/Getty Images/iStockphoto

© Photograph: Remedios/Getty Images/iStockphoto

© Photograph: Remedios/Getty Images/iStockphoto

My search for the perfect Italian aperitivo in Verona

5 October 2026 at 02:00

The classic pre-dinner drink and snack combo varies depending where you are in Italy. In this fair city, it’s an institution that can even be enjoyed first thing

I arrived in Verona, I admit, without a particularly clear idea of what aperitivo meant. In Italy, the ritual – broadly, a drink and something small to eat before a meal – speaks a different dialect in every city.

Milan has turned it into a polished after-work institution. In Venice, it is more itinerant: an ombra (a small glass of wine) along with a cicchetto (a bite-size snack) and then on to the next bacaro (one of the city’s traditional wine bars). Verona follows another logic.

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© Photograph: Gabriele Pasca

© Photograph: Gabriele Pasca

© Photograph: Gabriele Pasca

Holiday cottage company insisted on a death certificate to amend our break

5 October 2026 at 02:00

Sykes Holiday Cottages showed no empathy and insisted on paperwork we didn’t have so soon after my husband’s death

We booked a break with Sykes Holiday Cottages for 11 of us to celebrate my mum’s 80th birthday last February. The cost was £2,400, paid for by my 87-year-old dad, but it was my husband who made the booking.

In January, my husband was diagnosed with aggressive lymphoma, and he died 10 days before the trip. My parents and some other members of the party still planned to take the holiday, and my dad informed Sykes of the death, since my husband was their point of contact.

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© Photograph: John Morrison/Alamy

© Photograph: John Morrison/Alamy

© Photograph: John Morrison/Alamy

Alone with the stars, lynx and wolves in ‘Empty Spain’

4 October 2026 at 02:00

A world away from the tourist hotspots of the coast, Extremadura and Castile and León offer unpolluted skies, lower prices – and hope for the future of vulnerable wildlife

As photographed at night from a satellite, or the International Space Station (ISS), the Iberian peninsula looks encrusted with lights along its coastal edges. Madrid forms a big pulsing cluster near the centre, while surrounding hinterlands appear as something of a void. Ever fewer people live out in Castile and León and Extremadura, adjoining regions that cover much of what is known as La España Vacía, or “Empty Spain”.

Not many visit either, or at least not compared with Barcelona and other glowing nodes of the tourist circuit. So, while the big ports and resorts struggle to manage surplus holidaymakers, there is room for plenty more out west, toward the Portuguese border. Some have been following the stars that way lately, under the auspices of an astrotourism initiative called Extremadura Buenas Noches.

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© Photograph: Extremadura, Buenas Noches

© Photograph: Extremadura, Buenas Noches

© Photograph: Extremadura, Buenas Noches

Missive From Kyiv

2 October 2026 at 12:47
As I write this, an air raid siren is blaring outside my hotel window. I am in Kyiv, and my first response isn't to run to a shelter, it's to check my phone: two jet-powered Shahed drones, heading north of my location through the bright Ukrainian sky. I feel lucky. In past years, such daylight strikes were rare, but in 2026, Russia is determined to cut Ukraine's cities off from electricity, heating, and water supplies, driving the country into a humanitarian crisis. Putin has ordered the Russian military to abandon all rules of war.

Since I might be the only MeFite in Kyiv right now, I will add some personal context: none of these are hypotheticals. They all appear to be plans that have been in motion for some time, and it is only recently that media outlets begun picking up the thread of daily life on the ground. Russia's current favorite target isn't the Ukrainian military, it's civilians. Four days ago, I was in a park when Ukraine's National Academy of Sciences was hit. The explosion rang out over the city. Heads turned in horror. A woman walking her dog looked to be on the brink of tears. Nobody knew what was hit yet, just that Kyiv's defenses had failed, which meant that someone somewhere was probably dead (they were). Air raid sirens for Kyiv happen about once every two hours, well into the morning. I've lost count of how many times I've been woken up by one. And you never know how close your path will cross with a drone. Yesterday, I took an Uber over a bridge to visit the other side of Kyiv. It was a good day for Uber. Normally, Ukrainian defensive GPS spoofing also scrambles people's phone locations. For my previous ride, my phone put me in South America and gave an approximate arrival time of 19,000 minutes for a drive across the Atlantic. Last night, that same bridge was struck multiple times. While the structure remains intact, the city's traffic has slowed to a crawl as it tries to adjust. City officials aren't letting cars cross a bridge if there's a drone threat. Since the threats are nearly constant, commuter pileups are everywhere, which I can only guess was the point of the attack. I should also specify that there are two types of air raid sirens in Ukraine: one for drones, one for ballistic missiles/artillery attacks. Currently, Ukraine intercepts about 90% of the old, propeller-type Shaheds and the about half of the new jet-powered types. For the jet-powered Shaheds, Ukraine is placing its hopes in a a new unproven drone interceptor it can't produce enough of. For ballistic missiles, Ukraine has no answer. Despite the Trump Administration licensing production of Patriot interceptors to Ukraine, bringing that system online will take Ukraine years. In the meantime, Ukraine's domestic missile interceptor is still not ready for the coming winter onslaught. Regardless of the siren, everyone checks their phones to see what is coming where. Volunteers on Telegram have crowdsourced information to keep Ukrainian citizens informed about what's flying over their skies. Zelenskyy offered to stop attacking Russian oil facilities if Russia would spare Ukraine's civilian infrastructure. Putin, unsurprisingly, called such a deal absurd. What sits with me most, though, are the people I meet each day. Yesterday, I had a conversation with a woman whose dad and brother are both fighting on the front line. When I asked her if she was worried about them, her reply was succinct: "That's life. What can you do?"

1893 in the Margins

18 September 2026 at 17:05
Pamela Toler (History in the Margins, 9/5/26), "The Great Panic of 1893": "occasionally an event, or person, or book, or idea ... shows up in footnotes or casual asides ... if it's interesting or important enough, I share it ... Lately, the Great Panic of 1893 has become insistent." Neil Flanagan (The Birth of a Capital, 9/4/26), "How often do you think about the 1893 World's Fair?": "what draws us to an event, story, or image depends less on the context of the events than the context we inhabit." Photos / maps / VR of the fair. Foods, sweet treats, and "orange cider" of the fair. Pall Mall Magazine and RIBA Journal on the fair. And other magazines that began in 1893 feature Ida Tarbell on "Pasteur at Home," famous prints, rules for psychic / occult investigators, articles on orchidology and astronomy, "Last Week's Paris" followup on anarchists, and the first story of Sexton Blake.
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